You're welcome, Sammy. I haven't even reviewed the list myself, and it is an old list. I suspect I still grow some of the plants on the list now, but I also know that I have found even more that produce great here since 2008. With thousands of varieties to choose from, we have many options, and most of them will perform here in a typical year. It can be harder to get great production in an extremely dry year or an extremely hot year, especially if the heat arrives early. One factor that seems to matter more than the variety selection is simply getting them planted early enough that they have plenty of time to set fruit before the heat arrives. Brandywine Sudduth's is still my own personal favorite, but it produces erratically---great in cooler, rainier years and not very well at all in hot, dry ones. I tend to grow it anyway most years on the chance that maybe this year will be the year a cool, rainy spring helps it be very productive. Although it wasn't on my Grow List for this year, I saw them in a store yesterday and promptly bought two. I probably jinxed myself by buying them and we'll probably have an insanely hot spring, but I hope that doesn't happen.

"A new tomato grower"? Heh. It's OK, you can say it was me! Thanks for the tips. I guess most of my plants are indeterminate -- even the cherry tomato plant. I still don't know what I'm going to do about support. There's so many options and I really don't know what's going to work best. Hey, I was just checking my radar and I thought of you guys near the Red River. It looks like NE OK is going to get the brunt of this latest "rain event" as they call it on the evening news. Rain event. I love their terminology. Can I buy tickets to a rain event? Well, I hope you guys are OK. I know some of you had muddy gardens before this rain started falling, but as for me, it'll help my latest transplants get "watered in."

Zach, I've grown the green zebras before, and just like a purple tomato tastes different than red tomato tastes different than a yellow tomato... the green ones taste different as well. I seem to remember not being overly crazy about the flavor, but then maybe we were picking them before they really were ripe? All I know is it was difficult for the "other" (AHEM!) harvesters to know when they were ripe, so likely we were getting some "green tomatoes aren't supposed to be THAT green" in our kitchen. I do recall that they grew well but weren't as prolific as some of the other varieties that we grow. You should try them, so that you can decide for yourself if you like them!

Sometimes even when there's really no known cure it's good to know exactly what it is. I Googled "green shoulder tomatoes" and learned "The cause of yellow shoulder disorder in tomato fruit has baffled scientists for the last 30 years." Also, "The practice of letting the fruit hang longer in order to 'color up' does not work and has the potential to increase the danger of fruit rot." This I already discovered from trying to ripen them on and off the vine until they rot. Too much heat on the plants in general or too much sun directly on the fruit are believed to be culprits, but it's only a belief and there's been no direct evidence to prove it. Okay, so which varieties are less susceptible to yellow shoulders? That's what I'd really like to know, only to read, "Certain cultivars are less susceptible and others are at higher risk," to which I cheered YES, YES, what are they, only to read on, "...but no research has been done to conclusively identify those cultivars." GLOOM! If I really was determined to delve into it, I could, "intensively leaf test tomatoes from the first flower cluster for Ca, K+ and Mg levels," and then play around with "potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate or calcium chelate," but I'm 74 and I don't think I'd live long enough to see any results. I'm mentally classifying yellow shoulder disorder along with blossom end rot for all practicle purposes as two presently incurable tomato problems we just have to live with.