Following Inkognito's question, and guessing from the "new" contributor names appearing here that you are of conifer forum origin, I had already postulated that one of the major purposes of this design is to find a way to plant all these plants that you love. That's a perfectly legitimate purpose - a collector's garden. Having made one of those myself (unintentionally, incrementally), and having transitioned out of that style to some extent, I would caution you to take a step back, waaaaay back, from the stage at which you are contemplating plant names. Think about the really basic questions, such as, do you really want to plant up against the house? This is not a foundation planting plan we're looking at here, but the use of the house as an anchor. But I don't really think that (a) your house is going to look any better with plants against it in this arrangement, or (b) that they will necessarily grow well up against the house. Deciduous plants in particular reach for the light, even when they are against a south-facing wall, and they do not look good after a few years. Fundamentally, what I'm seeing in this design is a case of what we call "perimeteritis" around here; a fear of simply stepping into the open and creating a bed for plants right where you want them to be for some aesthetic, functional, horticultural, or plant-tending reason. You've made a really easy design decision that is an alternative to Ken's "if I'm collecting I might as well just line 'em up" style, but is still not the creation of a pleasing and functional landscape that allows you to collect plants to your hearts content. There is a distinction here between perimeteritis and boundary definition. Nothing wrong with defining boundaries. But one way of distinguishing the two is to say, if my neighbour defined his/her boundaries the same way, could we co-exist? The answer is no - because your big trees, for instance, are borrowing airspace (and root space). At the same time, your big trees may be lending or wasting their primary amenity: shade. They may also end up competing with each other for airspace. Is this necessary? What you need to do to avoid a situation in which you will want to redo this all in five or ten years - and trust me on this, because I've moved every single one of my plants a half-dozen times as I transition from one garden form to another! - is to think in terms of plant form and its function for your life - shade here, sightlines there, enjoy the early spring or late fall flowers from this window, compost bin accessed this way, and view of your house from one vantage point or another. AND water flow. Do your design in terms of "big conifer here, arching deciduous shrub here, bulbs there, spreading deciduous tree here with shade on this patch." No plant names yet. Later, you fill in the plant names. The problem with a collector's garden is that once you live in it for a while, you start to think of the way the landscape functions for you, vs. for the plants. So my advice to you: step away from the structures, step away from the lot lines, and put down the pencil. Walk around your property and think about the places you like to BE on it, whether to enjoy the morning sun with coffee in hand admiring the new growth on the pines, watching the kids play while you're weeding, what have you. Put a plastic garden chair there. Sit in it, and think about what you want to see from there. Maybe one of your places is your back steps, your deck; others may be in the shade of the big trees you already have. Make pathways to get to the places you want to spend time, and also make pathways that reflect the routes you already go. Also, where do you sit IN the house and what do you want to see from there in what seasons? Landscape design, even if it is intended to collect plants, is for people, not for houses, properties, or plants. Design it around the people and their needs. KarinL

I haven’t visited these forums in some time and actually rediscovered this thread doing a google search on some rare plants (go figure). Since we have a lot of trees and not a lot of resources and time to protect them, most of my losses are due to deer/rodent herbivory. Instead of dwelling on all of the plants I haven’t been able to keep alive, I’ll mention the highlights and surprises here. I went go in depth on too many so ask if you want more details and I’ll try to keep an eye on this thread and respond back when I can. I have been in Arizona since May and I’m basing the updates from this past growing season on my mother’s observations. -Strongest growing maple is Acer lobelii by far; arrived as a stick broken in half during shipping en route from Colvos Creek Nursery in Washington state and has grown at least 3 feet a year. It towers over all of the other sticks in my maple collection at about 15 feet. -Acer davidii grosseri hersii (what a taxonomic mess!) is the strongest growing snakebark and a new addition since the original post I believe. I don’t give it any “help” nutrition-wise and it has grown 2 feet each year; excellent striped bark turns crimson with the onset of cold weather and the leaves are a mix of red, orange, and purple in the autumn. From Forestfarm and while they are awesome, I have not yet keyed this plant to confirm its identity; either way, doing awesome for a snakebark in a clay-dominated alkaline soil in an exposed area. -Acer rufinerve gets no fertilization either and has some years where it sits back and grows little, and other where it takes off. Apparently this year it grew over 2’, so it now stands about 8’. Bark is excellent, although it doesn’t change to crimson like some of the other snakebarks. Can occasionally develop minor signs of nutrient deficiency but not a big deal. Leaves are amazing both texturally (coarse) and by color in the autumn, a mix of red, orange and violet. -Acer henryi looks like a Boxelder and grows like one in upstate NY. After a rough time establishing and a nasty bout of sunscald, it now grows about 2’ a year and has excellent red and violet autumn colors, with violet usually dominating. -Acer longipes is notable because I was able to get one through a winter (low -13F) with the only damage due to herbivory. Supposedly sprouted up big time this past summer. Not many experts seem to place much faith in its hardiness and it may have been below the snowline at the time of the low temp. Time will tell. -Acer mandshuricum, Acer triflorum, and Acer maximowiczianum all suffer through chlorosis. A. triflorum does the worst, A. maximowiczianum the best. A hybrid from Forestfarm between A. pseudoplatanus and A. griseum has done very well, with violet-backed leaves and red fall color. Hybrid vigor and no cold or soil issues. -Acer oliverianum is starting to pick up steam and has yet to be damaged by temps as low as -16F. Might be benefiting from the protection of a nearby hedge. Fall color is usually reddish-orange; it is deeply shaded. -Calycanthus raulstonii ‘Hartlage Wine’ is a huge success. Massive flowering in the second year and completely hardy. Grows very fast and gets leggy unless trimmed. Flowers are gorgeous and large, with virtually no scent. Numerous visitors that have seen the plants have subsequently scoured google for a dealer. The intense color has even drawn some hummingbirds. Seedless. Highly recommend. -Magnolia grandiflora ‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty’ gets defoliated by about January when the truly consistent cold temperatures begin. This about the time that the soil freezes for good as well, limiting the plant’s ability to care for the leaves no doubt. At times, it looks like a fancy houseplant with shiny green leaves growing amongst the snow. No cold-dieback although it is not yet established and grows only about 6 inches a year max so far (haven’t got an update for this past season yet). It is late to leaf out in the spring. -Have a Stewartia malacodendron that apparently did very well in a shaded and very rich sand lens in a protected area that gets partial shade. It is big enough to be above the (likely) snow line and I will be very, VERY interested in seeing if it overwinters. Perhaps more updates later (and as I receive them!)

Hmm not sure of its tolerance of dry soils as its normally a coppice tree found near water, similar habit to willows: Cultivation âÂÂJump back a section Timber It is important as coppice-wood on marshy ground. The alder is capable of enduring clipping as well as marine climatic conditions. The tree may be cultivated as a windbreak. It adapts to the conditions fast and the young trees also develop rapidly, almost growing about one meter or more in a year. Hence, the alder is an outstanding pioneer species for reinstating forestland or abandoned farmland and other problematic soils that do not support vegetation easily. Its rapid growth provides secluded conditions to establish more lasting forest trees. Besides, as nitrogen-fixing bacteria colonize the roots, it is able to enrich the soil and thereby help the proper growth of other plants which cannot cope with the impoverished conditions. Alder also provides shade to the plants growing below and the leaf fall helps to increase the amount of humus present in the soil. The species is cultivated as a tree in parks and gardens, and the variety 'Imperialis' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit. [8] You might also want to consider the Italian Alder (A.cordata) with dainty, slender leaves and a more slender profile.

Bambi-Yeah...welcome to our group. So glad you wanted to be a part of this group. I have two grown children, a daughter and a son. My daughter has our only two grandchildren, Brittney (16 yrs) and Dawson (2 years). They live beside me and I love it. A white fence separates our homes and my DH says once Dawson passes through the fence its sanctuary to him (no spankings on our side). AS you know I LOVE SPIDERS. How many times did I change my mind as to which ones I wanted to trade for? You had too many that I wanted. I live close to the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. I work at Zickgraf Hardwood Company, they make hardwood floors. I am in the purchasing department, I along with two others help buy the wood that makes the hardwood floors. Been there 24 years next February. Dawn-Loved your recent update it's really coming along now. 200 hostas? I say you must love them. We need pictures when you get done planting all those. Barb-What a beautiful scene. When I first looked at it I thought someone had retaken a picture out of a magazine. Just beautiful and so peaceful looking. 80 acres? I want to come and live with you, you want even know that I am there. My 3 acres is almost full already. I visted Ohio 10 years ago. Went to see the Amish. Gosh I love the way those folks live. I could really get into that. Jo- I hope to work on our trade this week-end. Weed pulling and digging is just about to do me in. They grow wheather it rains or not. Volleyball has started back also. I can't believe I am playing this year. I got a brace for my ankle and I tighten it very tight and off I go. My DH said if I damage it worse than it already is he does not want to hear about it. I had two girls that can not play this year so I could not let the team down by quitting too. Bambi-Let Cindy know if you want to be in on this swap. Thursday is the deadline to sign up. I sent you the rules of the group. Shirley