here where we dont get earthquakes :) the standard is to use a sealant along the bottom row of tiles but if you asked two contractors in your area and they both do it the way you describe, I would say there is a reason for it. What it sound like to me is that they grout because it looks better but there is still a layer of sealant over the top in case the grout cracks etc to protect the joint or they are using sealant first and the grout goes over the top to cover the sealant? Sealant doesnt last forever anyway and if it comes off then it would just be a 5 minute job to redo it so I dont think it would be a big deal as long as there is some sealant there for protection. Just my thoughts :)

How about TEC XT? Comes in both Sanded and Unsanded versions (for most colors), and is supposed to be more stain resistant and mold and mildew resistant than other cement-based grouts. It does require a longer cure time 7-10 days before getting wet or sealing (doesn't need to be sealed, but can be, with a solvent-based sealer, which we did when we sealed the marble and trav tile in both bathrooms). I sealed it in the MB at 7 days because I needed that bathroom functional "now" LOL. It also requires a drier clean-up (just wring sponge out well when wiping off excess grout, according to the rep with whom I spoke during my grout "research"--there's a video you can watch, too). It's a little stickier than the reg TEC grout, so you might need a bit more elbow grease to remove grout haze, but that's about it. We used the Bright White for the field tile in both upstairs baths (used the reg TEC in Bright White for our kitchen and guest bathroom since the XT either wasn't around then or we just didn't know about it at the time). We used both the Sanded and the Unsanded. The Unsanded is a bit whiter than the Sanded (because the sanded has actual grains of sand, which I'm sure you know), but both seem white enough. We used a very glossy, very white, Porcelanosa large format tile in the MB. Our grout lines are very tight, except for the White Thassos mosaic/border (which came pre-mounted on mesh), and the Unsanded worked very well. We also used it (in Almond) with the split faced trav mosaic in the hall bath which had practically non-existent grout lines in spots. Of course, when I say "we" used any of these products, I mean our wonderful tile guys used them for us!

I spoke to one of the workers today and told him it was industry standard to use this plastic. I don't know anything about curbs or mud, or any of those other words. I asked him about this book, and of course, he looked at me like I was crazy. My husband spoke to the contractor who said this is totally unnecessary, and that he has been doing this for years this way, even in his own house. -- I told him .- this puts me in a weird predicament because I don't want the job to be done wrong, and I'm not convinced that this is right. We are at a stand-still. I want to take a hammer to those tiles-- I am waiting to hear from the store-owner who sold me the tiles and ask her advice about what I can do now..... I am also going to ask her about the glass shower tiles with cold and hot water. This is why I hired a Contractor -- I don't want to make all these calls and teach myself how to install a bathroom, or a floor, or a fireplace! Creative - I cannot thank you enough. I looked through the book you are referring to. The contractor thinks I'm reading into everything because this isn't the first thing I've complained about.... This is the text he sent me this morning "The vinyl on floor and up walls about a foot and up seat area and on wall behind you do not need on walls unless steam shower nobody puts on wall you are reading to much No concern my own shower is done like this"

An easy way to "cap" the curb is to use the excess material cut down from your countertops. Also a great way to deal with the interior walls of a shower niche. Have the countertop fabricator cut it to the right size and then your tile guy can install it along with the tile.