axel, I purchased footies, cotton bags and tule bags to see which was most effective bagging peaches,apples, grapes, etc. While tule bags were 3X the cost of cheaper alternatives they proved to be the most effective as you could draw the synthetic drawstring tight around the fruit stem, the fabric was easy to see through so you could watch the fruit ripening, it prevented bug/bird/squirrel attacks and the bag was easiest to remove at harvest and seemed to be in the best shape for multiple reuses in future years. When you look at all the time and money invested in the land, plants, sprays, soil, pruning, watering , etc.to grow fruit, to me the cost of tule is miniscule. I have seen a 4 quadrant piece clam shell like aluminum tube frame device with tule type netting that covers a dwarf peach tree from the trunk near the ground to above the tree top. Not sure where it was purchased, but it seemed to keep all pests out except human trespassers!

Mosquitoes are a problem sporadically for us, but since we tend not to have the heavier rainfall many of you have been having, they're not much of a problem right now. We do have a huge platoon of dragonflies and damselflies who look for food relentlessly all day long and they love mosquitoes, and we have lots of birds (including Purple Martins) and bats that eat them too. I also put Bt 'israelensis' granules or dunks in all our standing bodies of water...like the rain barrels, the ponds, etc. Suzie, It can be very hard to identify caterpillars since there are over 300,000 species of Lepidoptera worldwide but Susan might be able to tell you what it is since she is into butterfly gardening. On the website linked below, there are additional links that identify known butterflies and moths of Oklahoma. If the damage to your shrubs rises to the level that you feel like you need to treat the caterpillar infestation, you can spray your shrubs with Bt 'Kurstaki' which is a toxin manufactured from a bacteria that specifically targets caterpillars. It is organic and won't harm anything other than the butterfly/moth larvae. It is easily found in stores and the products that have it as their active ingredient include Thuricide, Dipel and Safer Caterpiller Killer. In the veggie garden, I generally just handpick cats off plants because I have so many flowers there that attract butterflies and moths, and even desirable caterpillars like those of the Black Swallowtail, so I don't like to use Bt there. In an ornamental shrub bed, though, I wouldn't hesitate to spray with Bt if the shrubs had considerable damage. Anna, I'm in Love County and have not seen any decrease in fire ants this year (I wish I had), so I don't think the winter affected ours even though our low temps this winter went down into the single digits a few times. We had them all over the place beginning about late March and running through mid-May. Since the rain stopped in our county and the heat cranked up into the mid- to upper-90s, they've gone underground the last 2 or 3 weeks and I'm not seeing them as much, but I bet if it rained they'd pop up out of the ground overnight. I still find them in raised beds in the veggie garden when I'm digging or when I'm pulling weeds, and I still run over an occasional mound when mowing. I only treat mounds in the veggie garden and in my container-grown vegetables, the dog's fenced play yard, and the backyard where our granddaughter plays and I only use organic fire ant killers. We have almost 15 acres, so there's no way we could afford to treat all of it. In the past I have used some non-organic fire ant killers, but because we have a lot of edible crops in the form not only of vegetables but also fruit trees and berry crops, I've stopped using all nonorganic fire ant killers. We have oodles of native ants of all kinds, but the evil fire ants dominate the ant world at our place. We also have red harvester ants in and around the veggie garden, but I leave them alone because they are a food source for the horned toads and because they clean up the carcasses of dead insects. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Butterflies and Moths of Oklahoma

"Are BSF timid creatures, or am I most likely going to have them crawling on me or flying around when I'm checking out my bin?" Some people really love their BSFL, as much as we love our worms. They too worry about them when they have to leave them for a few days. My understanding is that when BSFL are about 3/4 inch long and smaller they are white. Then as they mature they turn black and hard like little armadillos. Then they hide. The flys that emerge are like large houseflies but they do not land on poop and then on food. They avoid people, poop and food and want to find a bit of rot to lay their eggs on. They fly erratically. Slow when they are just warming up. Then faster. They are black with some of their leg area white. I think you would like the fly and the mature larvae and not be afraid of them. The thing that is cool about the white larvae is if one puts lets say the remains of a fish that the fillets have been harvest from into the bin, the the BSFL boil over the remains so actively that the remains float over the top of the activity and wonder around the container while getting smaller and smaller until they are all gone. Maybe let your helper know that these types of things in the bin are normal so they will not be startled. There is the cutest youtube that shows a little girl with a handful of BSFL feeding then to her chickens. If they knew that even little girls are not afraid of them then they might be more ok with them. Me I do not even touch my worms except with a 10 inch stick. Not even with gloves on. Maybe the scarriest thing to ever happen was I had noticed a few things out of place around the bin lately. Things were a bit mess with the vermicomost. I thought I was just sloppy. One day I put food in the top of the bin and out of the bottom a mouse jumped and darted off of my leg. I screamed like a little girl. Then I laughed a lot because I screamed. Many people love furry mice as pets. Maybe not me. I wonder if he was eating my worms. I move the material around in my bin to learn what is going on. As I am more confident I know what is happening in there and as vermicomposting is not my newest hobby, and I am not possessed with knowing what is going on with the little guys, I am more likely to leave them alone. Then my activity with the bin would more resemble how sbryce advises. Like him I would flip the bottom material over for the same reasons. Or gain interest in flow through bins like I have. I would think the cloth worm inns would work nice for you. Just put the stuff food by the tons and bedding in at the top. Zip it in. Water frequently. Harvest at the bottom. Supposedly no need to separate worms. They do dry out fast but the activity of adding water is pleasant for some. Others may have fish tank change water they want to use. I would think that maybe the condition of the material might be gauged a tiny bit by just squeezing the bag. I do not have one. Some people sew their own. Having a strong enough stand to hold mega weight is important. I guess like not buying the first year of a car I am waiting for them to come out with the new and improved version. I think mine would dry out. That would be ... ... .,. very bad for the worms. A homemade plastic bin is more resilient in that way.

We have already adopted a lot of this into our design. Big Don Aslett fans here, too. And yes, having a room that can be converted to an older kid bedroom is useful even when they share. In our case it’s going to be the LEGO room off the play area - it’s for big kid projects and things the littles shouldn’t be into, and I’ll convert it for the college student or two of the bunch down the road. Otherwise it’s three bunks per bedroom and a bathroom for each. Girls room, boys room, extra flex room, and if absolutely necessary, the guest bedroom/craft room/handicapped accessible extra master for our special little guy :) We were thinking over space and privacy in the shared rooms and came to the decision that full beds over a desk and drawer area were the best choice, possibly with curtains rails around the top if they want to pull them for some privacy. Then there is a schoolwork area, personal drawer space, and a mini ‘room’ for the child while still living together. That’s how we made it work in the dorms and I think it was a good setup. It also means we don’t need absolute enormous closets since those are only for hanging dresses and out of season gear. If it comes time to sell it makes the room a lot more functional as a normal master suite and not some sort of freakish planned communal room. YES to a bike loop in the yard, even if the yard is small. Perimeter tracks are SO useful. YES to a drinking fountain in the mud room (outside isn’t useful if your area freezes like ours does). YES to laundry by the bedrooms - we are doing one laundry area in the hall to the master suite, on the main floor, and another laundry area in the upstairs between the kid rooms. They’re many feet apart so two makes sense, and we can barely keep up on laundry with a single machine anyway. Many more amens and agreements to the other list items. When the design is well planned and lives well for the family the square footage becomes less of an issue. I can exist in half the house if I have twice the storage ;) And as another Speed Queen devotee, I cant recommend them highly enough!