Missing finish on cabinets?
3 months ago
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Solution for missing cabinet drawers?
Comments (9)Your kitchen has such great structure with which to work. I congratulate you on your purchase. Exciting! The thrifty part of me would be looking in Habitat of Humanity Restores and similar stores. But to keep the pedals moving, the pragmatic side of me would be looking for a replacement door. From a distance, it appears the cabinets are possibly maple (can't tell if I see some knotting), with a square flat panel door front in the honeytone stain family. The opened base is next to the sink looks about 18", with prep space above. Functionally, I'd consider modifying the interior to allow a garbage pullout or garbage can. The link below offers replacement doors and breaks it down by wood and stain. Perhaps you could send them a piece of the remaining wood for them to match, if the price works for you. This assuming you don't know the cabinet manufacturing details to call about replacement etc., or if a replacement like shown happens to be more in budget. Here is a link that might be useful: Here is a link which may help:...See MoreHELP!! Faucet Finish vs. Cabinet Hardware Finish.
Comments (7)I recently (as in this week!) was asking myself the same exact question - a quick look at all my kitchen magazines convinced me that the satin nickel faucet/stainless sink/ ORB hardware combo is done all the time. I think it's a great look. The faucet will pick up on the sink, your Wolf range, and any other stainless appliances you may have. Like you I have creamy cabinets with glaze( with a cherry island) , Wolf SS range, paneled fridge and SS undermount sinks. My granite is in the medium brown tones - New Venetian Gold. I'm doing ORB hardware on both perimeter and island, satin nickel faucets and stainless undermount sinks. Lighting will probably have ORB or similar trim. I've also seen ORB faucets matched up to ORB hardware , including mixed with stainless sinks (one like that right on the cover of one of a recent kitchen magazine) - those can be just gorgeous , too. To me, some faucets styles look better in the ORB than others - just personal preference. In addition to kitchen magazines, you might also want to check out the finished kitchen blog on this site - look at categories and then creamy colored kitchens or ORB. If you want a satin nickel faucet though, I think you'll be reassured by what you see....See MorePaint for Cabinets: Insl-X Cabinet Coat or BM Advance Satin Finish?
Comments (33)alinayuriy - Sorry for the delay in responding...I wanted to check on the type of roller we used before I commented. We ended up using Cabinet Coat, mixed at our local BM dealer, with Sherwin Williams Urbane Bronze. They manually matched the color for us. We are using Satin finish. We chose CC for a few reasons, although they might not be the most logical :) First, it was what we knew. I've liked Satin Impervo for trim in the past but didn't know how it would hold up on cabinets. We read a lot of reviews on Advance and CC, including the ones in this thread and ultimately felt there was no real big push for us to switch from a product we had already sampled to a new one. If people had said CC was really hard to work with or didn't hold up, we would have switched but everything we have read is that it was really "user friendly" and good for newbies, like us. We also liked that it is self-priming. I know some people will say "prime anyway!" and we were going to but a test sample showed no difference in coating. We also looked closely at the SW recommended above, especially since we were going with a SW paint color, but since the project is already complicated enough, I decided to just stick with what was working, which was Cabinet Coat. We have coated the base cabinets and 1 coat on the lower doors, so far. I don't know how it would be for others with factory/builder-grade stained cabinets but this is our experience with custom built, pre-painted cabinets. We have cleaned w/ TSP-replacement, de-glossed with a liquid de-glosser/sanding product (I know some people hate this idea but it's been great, esp with the grooves and cracks we have in our cabinets), then sanded as needed, wiped down and painted with Cabinet Coat. We are currently using a brush and roller method. As I mentioned in an earlier thread, we didn't go with a sprayer although I have some great recommendations on one. Our reasons for no sprayer was #1: budget. It's really tight right now. #2: I worried about where we would spray. We live in the NE and we don't have a heated area to spray and I worry that the sprayer would spray too much. This may be a totally silly concern, the reality is that I just *think* that could be an issue and so I decided it was one. Paint sprayers may be totally safe to spray in a small, enclosed area...so really, don't listen to me on this one haha! We are using Purdy brushes to get in the cabinet grooves and do the edges and rolling after. Our assembly line process is for me to brushy and my husband to follow with the roller. We are using 2 different rollers - we aren't sure which we like best. One is the Whizz 4" roller with the standard foam roller that is in the package. We used this for all of the bottom base cabinets (with a brush too). Then, we tried some fancy Whizz roller that someone on a blog or on Houzz recommended as their favorite. I'll post a pic of the package. It's a bit bigger than we need and we worried about coverage but it all smoothed out nicely. We only used it once on the front cab doors, so we are going to try again today and see how it goes. The first coat is very much a base coat, whether we use a roller or a brush. One thing we noticed, not sure if it's b/c of my specific cabinet situation or b/c of the paint...I think it's the cabinet (high gloms painted, deglossed, sanded, no primer per CC instructions) but the initial coat has just "ok coverage". That being said, we could be just bad at painting b/c we are worried about drips so we are doing thin coats. When we go back over with the brush, it will leave streaks. I don't remember this from other paints in different situations (not cabinets). I'm sure it's what we are doing, not so much the paint itself b/c i haven't read this as being an issue for anyone else. I hope this helps!...See MoreWhat's missing in my living room? Help me put the finishing touch!
Comments (21)Someone said: I believe the Houzz experts (and I am NOT one!) suggest the TV be 2/3 the width of the TV cabinet. No no no no no. The TV cabinet needs to be at least 25% wider than the TV. Wider is always better. There is no minimum size for the TV. Do not hang that guitar between the windows. Do not hang anything between the windows. Your curtains are perfect. Hang the guitar on the wall just left of the TV, get some art for over the sofa, and add just a touch more red to echo the arc lamp (which is tres cool, BTW). You've done a great job so far. You've got this....See MoreRelated Professionals
Flint General Contractors · Geneva General Contractors · Kailua Kona General Contractors · North Bellport Home Builders · Puyallup Home Builders · Omaha Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Garden City Interior Designers & Decorators · Berkeley General Contractors · Fairview General Contractors · Galveston General Contractors · North New Hyde Park General Contractors · Hybla Valley Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Pike Creek Valley Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · National City Cabinets & Cabinetry · Woodland Design-Build Firms- 3 months agolast modified: 3 months ago
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