Top-pruning would not give you more fruits, just lower and slightly fewer fruits the following year.

If this is a tree on standard rootstock that is expected to get tens of feet tall, how much ladder work do you want to do for harvest? That is the main factor in limiting the tree to X meters tall.

There appears to be some spindly lengthy lower branches that will break under a fruit load unless propped up or the developing fruits thinned to 3 or 4 per branch.. General advice for pear trees is to not let them get too dense. Top-pruning can help keep the overall density down.

More things to consider are: for such a public tree, higher-up fruit may be better, but not at the expense of having walkers bonked on the head with falling fruit.

If that's a recent picture of your pear tree it's best to wait until it's dormant to prune it back, I prune mine in Jan. I have 4 pear trees (no Bosc though) and allow them to have a central leader. 3 of them are around 14 YO and I try to train the upper branches to bend over as the fruits develop. But as Logician says the branches do tend to snap, especially in high winds if the fruits aren't thinned properly to reduce the weight. My trees are 2 Bartletts, 1 Kieffer, and a young 5 YO Seckle which produced its very first pear this year, just 1 pear, nyuk.