We're having a driveway built from scratch next week (our 107yo house never had off-street parking). Luckily we have a comparatively small project so we can be an "infill job" between larger ones, although we tried to get on the roster early before folks were booked up we've still been waiting about six weeks. Asphalt prices are skyrocketing and our contractor is not expecting prices to drop anytime soon so we just wanted to get it done and over with; he quoted us based on a certain price per ton or cubic yard or however the heck they measure asphalt, but we'll undoubtedly have to pay more if the receipts show a higher price for the asphalt. The price of fuel for the excavators, the truck to bring the gravel, the gravel itself, it's all going up and up and up. We looked into concrete and even with the oil situation the cost was a good bit higher than asphalt, it was closer to the cost of pavers than asphalt! Concrete driveways don't last all that well in my cold, snowy, icy climate, which was also a major consideration for us given its much greater expense; in a hotter climate where it holds up better than asphalt, the higher cost may be justified. There's a lot of research that goes into figuring this sort of thing out!

I have used those Pli-Stix as well and they work great. It is pure asphalt so it is the same stuff that is used on the roads. Highly recommended over the cold pour stuff. I thought I would share what I did as I it worked quite well for me: - buy a torch extender: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-WH0159-Universal-Torch-Extension-Hose-334246/202539579 . It comes with a belt hook so the propane cylinder can hang from your waist. I used the standard propane torch without issue. Not having used a torch much before this it took me a few tries to figure out that when lighting it lights easiest when the propane flow is very low. It also goes without saying I think that this project does not work well on windy days. - next, open a tuna can, remove tuna, make tuna salad, and have lunch. Preserve tuna can. - clean out and dry the tuna can - take some needle nose pliers and bend one side into a good sized spout - 90 degrees from the spout grab along the top of the can with the pliers and bend it down. When I did this the pliers poked a hole just along the rim of the can and made a perfect holding spot for the pliers to hold on to the can - cut the Pli-Stix into 4 inch or so lengths or whatever size you think you can jam into a tuna can - add one at a time into the can and use the torch to melt it while holding it with the needle nose pliers. When I did it, it flamed a bit which is expected as the plastic wrapper burns off, but sometimes the asphalt would catch and I would just remove the torch for a bit. Flaming a bit doesn't seem to impact the efficacy as far as I can tell. - pour out the hot liquid ashphalt into the crack - after a crack is filled I go over it with the torch to melt it smooth This is not a quick project but I prefer to do it once rather than every year (other than fixing any new cracks that appear). Chad

After a good rain, how long does the water sits there? In any case, at the beginning, not a big deal but it could get worst over time, and if the cause for driveway depressions was poorly compacted subbase it could settle more over time and become a bigger issue. Usualy you will see minor pudding occur on "a more or less flat surface" and the water usualy will dry-out fairly quickly. In your case, it looks like the standing water is in a well-pitched area which is very uncommon, so the depression there could be a bit excessive. Also if you in a 4 season region, during the winter season if there is standing water it will turn to ice. I would get the owner back there and see what they can do to solve this issue. Good luck

When I mentioned a retaining wall, I was actually thinking considerably shorter walls rather than a head high fence. You don't want to crowd your road or driveway with a tall fence. You don't want mud washing onto your driveway from your yard. You don't want rainwater draining off the driveway against any WOOD you use for your retaining wall(s) because prolonged exposure will decrease their life span and the lowest point -- the drainage ditch -- will have the longest moisture exposure. You actually need to have a drainage space alongside the driveway (one seems to already have been begun) -- perhaps a French drain ... ditch filled with gravel ... with the ditch itself and the top of any gravel in the ditch both be gently sloping away from the road. You don't want the water in that ditch against a wood retaining wall because, as the lowest point, water will be against that very short retaining wall more. If, at this time, you don't want to invest in building your a short stone or brick lowest retaining wall with its top several inches above the driveway, consider at least investing in some concrete cap blocks or patio blocks set on their end or edge side by side and leaning against a sloped embankment above the drainage ditch. (Sloped so as to not fall over. ) . https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cap-Concrete-Block-Common-4-in-x-8-in-x-16-in-Actual-3-625-in-x-7-625-in-x-15-625-in/3608974?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--bdm--google--lia--210--brickandblock--3608974-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItLz8nMDe8AIVA5JbCh08ywYHEAQYASABEgIx-PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rectangle-Gray-Concrete-Patio-Stone-Common-8-in-x-16-in-Actual-7-7-in-x-15-6-in/3018997?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--lwn--google--lia--236--patiohardscape--3018997-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-K3dhsDe8AIVtf7jBx01IAo-EAQYASABEgLajPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Top of that first retaining wall needs to be several inches higher than the driveway. If you can add another cap block in a level space above that cap block buried horizontal/flat with only its wide flat top showing so the leaning cap blocks can lean against it, that will hold your dirt better than just the leaning cap block . Stagger the spaces between the leading blocks and the flat blocks above/behind them so water doesn't wash through the spaces. By not adding concrete now, with more cap blocks later, you could recreate your lowest retaining wall nearest your driveway with the blocks laid flat. Above/behind that first short short retaining wall alongside the drainage ditch, you could create level planting areas with spaces that "fit" your yard -- some deeper than others above wood retaining walls. What trees are alongside your driveway, unless removed, could limit the depth/width of these flat planting areas so you could have deeper level spaces in some places but less deep where trees block what you want to do. You can create multiple retaining walls and "steps" of level spaces in which you can plant ferns or shade friendly ground cover or moss. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/350999364712347931/