PF offered to come buff and put another coat, but we objected it since all 4 coats were put within 6.5 hours and we are not sure that previous coats are good. PF also offered to do full refinish but we don't have confidence that PF can do a good job this time. PF himself does not guarantee that second time the finish will work because as he says we do not have perfect humidity conditions. PF says all his employees are certified and did everything within the Bona's guideline. I don't know how 4 coats in 6.5 hours is within Bona's guideline but he is a type of a person that can claim that yogurt is black. The inspector made a mistake and told us that only one person was certified from PF. After we told PF that we talked to female inspector and she said that from our description it looks like PF was at fault, PF tracked down the inspector (we did not disclose inspector's name to PF), called her to correct her that all his employees are certified. In addition PF threatened the inspector to take her to NFWA ethics boards and told her how much money he makes a year and that she should be careful. PF told the inspector that she cannot work for us since he hired her once and that would be a conflict of interest since the inspector has a dislike for him. He is willing to pay $1400 for the damages and walk away if we sign NDA. I told him $1400 would not even cover our accommodation and moving and storage fees of our belongings that we are incurring because of him plus we have to sign a NDA that will free him from any future responsibly of his subfloor and floor install work. We contacted PF and told that it was wrong to track down the inspector and threaten her. PF denied that he threatened the inspector and only called her to correct that all his employees are certified. Also PF tried multiple times to convince us to hire an inspector of his choice for $500. We said we want an independent inspector. He says the inspector we found is a rip off as their fee is $2800.

I only see the mix in the first image. Are these two different rooms? Why not just replace with the dominant specie? In the case o fthe first image, remove the white oak and complete with red oak. You then do not need to worry about matching a stain.

It's odd to have a milling issue twice on one order. I can probably count the milling issues I've seen from 1985 to present using the fingers on one hand. I can't determine much from your picture but the color does remind me of products I've seen where the wood was treated chemically to achieve a unique appearance that's not achievable with a regular staining process. I'd love to see a bigger picture. In the US we have lumber grades and some milled flooring species have grading rules set by manufacturer's associations, Finished products generally require referring to the maker since they're not governed by the associations. In unfinished Oak you have Clear, Select, #1, #2 and #3. In prefinished items you'll often see just a select grade and maybe a rustic grade. Sounds like you're describing the difference between unfinished Clear and Select. Manufacturers don't sort for color, but they might cull out boards with sapwood in the Clear grade, leading to a more uniform coloration. Don't know what you paid but I'm buying some 6" wide 2' to 10' unfinished engineered White Oak and it's over $8/sq.ft. Recently a contractor requested a bid to install wood being purchased by the homeowner and the product was around $20/ft. for Rustic and $25/ft. for Select. Prices are kind of crazy out there.

The standard "Raw" looking whitish white oak is bleached, toned, and then protected with a water based top coating. If you want it to be the look of raw unfinished oak, it's not a single step process. It's a big big upcharge because of all of the steps. Wipe it with denatured alcohol to see what it would look like with a plain water based clear. If you are OK with that look, then tell them that a plain waterborne clear is fine.