We don't water it, as we get a mild amount of rain here. Not too much, but just enough to keep the soil a little moist. Our soil pH is 6.5. We have horrible clay soil that, when it gets dry, is like a rock. We don't have any soil imbalances that I know about. We tried some miracle-gro fruit tree fertilizer stakes that we got from our local nursery. The leaves don't have any mottling or spots or other imperfections. They are a light green color, as most plum tree leaves are. They look like these leaves http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRg2VR-rKLwEAAPVEqooo6rV1YWFDcYIQdquzJJWePLH4-x5OkZ Except without the plums, obviously. Now about the apple trees. The bigger one (GD) got the same fruit tree stakes but to no avail. Its leaves have cedar rust, but it is because our neighbors have juniper and cedar trees. It never affected the 6 huge and beautiful McIntosh and GD-Mutsu Hybrid trees we had at our old house, which is about 2 miles away from our current house with the same weather and soil conditions, and the trees were in the exact same amount of sun. There are no visible signs of pest or disease on any of the trees. the only things that have ever bothered them are japanese beetles, which we have only had twice, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Our average temperature throughout the year is around 79. We get around 40 inches of rain per year and all the trees are in full-partial sun, leaning more towards full. What I am wondering is, do nurseries that supply local nurseries and garden stores with fruit trees, put some substance on/in the trees to force them to produce fruit? It seems like every tree i have ever had, produces fruit the very first year I plant it, then it starts up again 2-3 years later. Do you know the answer to this? Thanks again. Lydia

Ravenh that is positively decadent, even by the standards of some of my wealthiest clients. I've seen 100 year old trees that might be worth it if you think of the trees as a living sculpture but I've never seen a 50 year old that was so extraordinarily beautiful to be worth that investment. In the neighborhoods of Greenwich, CT and parts of Westchester, NY (my main work domain) rich folks often purchase 10-20 year old trees from distant commercial orchards. I was called onto an estate owned by a leading fashion-designer- clothing manufacturer where a 50 tree orchard like this had been installed at about 3 grand a tree and after 3 years the trees were completely stunted. The high end nursery responsible for the installation failed to solve the problem even though it was quite obvious when I poked around. The holes had been dug by the same tree spade that dug up the trees so they were the same size as the root ball. The soil was a silt that compacted from pressure from the tree spade and roots could not cross the glazed walls of the planting holes. I proscribed breaking up the soil with shovels from the edge to a few feet beyond the original root ball and didn't hear back from the contractor who subcontracted me for the consultation. A few years later a friend on mine got the contract for the property and subcontracted me to tend the apples and they were in great shape, having completely recovered. I'm taking full credit, of course, although none of the trees were left untreated as a control. In this business when things go well you better take credit because when they don't you will certainly be blamed.

The deer like to rub their antlers on our trees which rubs a lot of the bark off. Supposedly they stop doing this once the tree is not big enough to have any give. We have cages around ours. If the cage is too narrow, sometimes the deer will still try to get to the tree and we'll find the cage all mangled, as well as the tree. I don't know about question #2.

Hey there Mango mango, I was actually just responding to your question above since I haven't been on this thread for a couple weeks. To answer your question, pruning should be done after harvest of the fruit. I see it all the time- mango trees are as big as dinosaurs here and many people prune vigorously after the summer is over and after harvest. Here's a link which discusses pruning and answers the question: http://lee.ifas.ufl.edu/AgNatRes/Pubs/Pruning_Mango_Trees.pdf Also, I'm far from being an expert on soils- or any other gardening topic for the matter- but I took the advice of a neighbor and used a combination more or less of this mix: 40% natural soil from my backyard, 40% specialized Hawaii potting soil, and about 10% gravel and perlite. I know it seems weird to use bagged potting soil instead of bagged garden soil, but my neighbor said that this mix would be beneficial for its added nutrients. I topped it off with some mulch, but the area needs work because so much grass is growing in the area.