Best planting to make compost?
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www.Composting.tv - How to make Organic Compost
Comments (5)What a surprise! On Tue, Apr 8, 08 at 9:02am (EST) berns_20 wrote on the Organic Gardening forum here at GardenWeb: Hi, Just wanna share to you this site regarding videos on techniques in organic compost making or composting. www.composting.tv - videos on organic compost making Been over to Vermicomposting yet this morning, berns_20? :) All the best, -Patrick...See MoreWhat vars make the best container plants?
Comments (2)I prefer to grow my versi's in pots as they are more cold sensitive. By growing them in pots, I can leave them outside as long as possible before snatching them inside. Also, some of the slower growing brugs, like Golden Lady, do really well in pots. And I grow my variegated ones in pots as they are more sensitive to the hottest summer sun. They start out in full sun and then, I move them to shadier locations as the summer progresses to keep their leaves from getting sunburned....See MoreBest time to make clones/cuttings from tomato plant?
Comments (2)Thanks for the reply. I will look out for heirloom seeds. Might already be but will make sure next time. I've also picked up something else that is interesting with this experiment. I started to get some algae growth within the containers (as expected) and thought it wise to treat the solution with H2O2 thinking that the extra dissolved oxygen will be beneficial and probably aid in the prevention of some fungal diseases. So I added a very small amount of the peroxide seeing that its the 40% one. About 5mil in one of the 25L containers. I started to notice the plant stressing out after about 30mins but perk back up as the hottest part of the day ended. So my thought process for possible reasons. Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm a noob in horticulture). 1. The decomposition of the algae took more dissolved oxygen out than what the hydrogen peroxide could put in. or 2. The plant experienced some shock due to a sudden increase in O2? (unlikely I think). or 3. The H2O2 was not mix properly and some concentrated parts got into direct contact with the plant roots and whacked it a bit. The other plants seemed ok with massive algae growth so I didn't treat them. I might be misunderstanding the entire process and what effects algae have on plant roots and or the nutrients. We're told to get rid of it in hydroponics but I'm not sure why? The nutrients that they take up are surely released back when they die out? But I can understand if they suffocate the roots or create an imbalance that it should go. Hope you guys might shed some light in regards to this. Have a great day. Cheers...See MoreBest for Garden vs Best for Composting
Comments (2)Bruce (Bendback50) knows what he's talking about and is absolutely correct that P. hawayana and A. gracilis are one and the same. This is not opinion, but fact. Earthworms are often re-classified when it is discovered that their physiology more closely resembles a different group or when new families or genera are added to the taxonomic lists. A. gracilis is a species that has been caught in this re-classification loop on more than one occasion, thus it is known by many names, most of which are outdated. The current correct name is Amynthas gracilis. Stay tuned, however, because getting taxonomists to agree and settle on a classification is akin to hearding cats... There is no one worm type or species that is generally "best" for buliding soil. While we break them out into the categories endogeic, anecic and epigeic, most worms have characteristics similar to those of the other categories. For instance, Lumbricus rubellus is categorized as an epigeic worm and performs and grows best in surface debris, but it can and often does burrow surprisingly deeply. The defining lines between species categories are not firm, but are rather blurry in many cases. It takes worms from all categories working in all areas of soil to maximize soil health. Determining whether an epigeic or endogeic species is best for you soil at a given point is akin to trying to determine which came first, the ckicken or the egg. Endogeic worms feed in soil that has decayed OM worked into the matrix; epigeic and anecic species decay that surface debris so it can be worked into the matrix. Which should come first? That is a question only the worms can answer. It is for this reason that adopting the "if you build it they will come" approach is usually the best idea. Create conditions suitable to worm activity; keep the soil well mulched and moist, avoid chemicals and tilling where possible, and the right worms will arrive at just the right times. Lastly, and most pragmatically, there are no sources of endogeic worms for sale, and even if there were, there is no guarantee that the species being sold would be appropriate to your particular soil type. So, mulch, mulch, mulch, get roots in the ground (plant roots encourage soil biology), avoid disturbing the soil as much as is practical, and let the worms do what worms do! Make sense? Kelly S...See MoreRelated Professionals
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