fertilizer for containers?
5 months ago
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Fertilizing dormant container plants over winter?
Comments (18)If you fertilize with a fertilizer that relies on urea or any other organic source of nitrogen (blood meal, feather meal, hoof/horn meal, alfalfa meal, boiled rice hulls, etc) there is a considerable risk of ammonium toxicity if soil temps are below 55-60*F or will be below 55* at some point in the near future. Immediately after nutrients are absorbed they are deposited in plant cells. If the nitrogen is in nitrate form, this is not a problem for plants; however, if nitrifying soil bacteria are inactive due to low temps, they are unable to convert ammoniacal nitrogen to nitrate. This causes ammonium to accumulate in plant cells with a high potential to damage the cells (at temps below 55-60*F). If you do fertilize, using Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 wouldn't be much of an issue because it supplies >2/3 of its nitrogen in nitrate form; however, most other 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers (like 24-8-16 and 12-4-8) rely completely on urea as their source of nitrogen and they would very likely create toxicity issues. Hobby growers almost always misdiagnose ammonium toxicity and attribute its symptoms to unrelated causes. In addition to being a frequent problem when grow media are below 55-60*F, the toxicity is also extremely common in waterlogged media or in plantings with compacted grow medium and/or when roots are congested; this due to the paucity of oxygen and high levels of CO2 in waterlogged or compacted media. BTW, if you will be keeping the chives in a pot, you should divide them every year, taking one or two divisions from the perimeter of the clump - not from the middle. The planting will need fertilizing if you keep it in a pot, but probably won't need fertilizing if planted out. Every plant needs a full compliment of nutrients essential to normal growth to be at it's best, and the only way to tell if your garden/ beds need supplemental nutrition is by way of a soil test. Al...See MoreOnly tomato fertilizer for container tomatos?
Comments (4)What is "tomato fertilizer"? There are dozens of different formulas under that name. Some have micronutrients, but most don't. Some people say tomato fertilizers should be higher in P than N or K. Others say they should be higher in K. Most people agree that tomatoes need calcium. I believe the ideas Al (aka Tapla) puts forth in his Fertilizing Containerized Plants posts. All plants use nutrients in close to the same ratio: 3:1:2. Since I grow my tomatoes in containers, I've been using a controlled release fertilizer with a ratio close to that and fertigate during the season with a soluble fertilizer with that ratio. I make sure my fertilizers have calcium, magnesium and trace elements. I sometimes use Tomatotone once the fruits start to form, which doesn't exactly fit the bill because it's lower in N. Reducing N at the time of flowering is one theory Al and others have talked about of how to increase yield. I always liked it when I used it in the garden, and it's easy to use without risk of burning....See MorePlease help me choose a fertilizer for container Meyer Lemon!
Comments (15)A seedling with it's first true leaves needs the same ratio of nutrients, including the secondary macros and all the micros. All nutrients are equally important to growth and vitality, so suggesting that nothing special need be done for the first 3 years could be very misleading. Nothing special need be done as long as the plant is getting ALL the nutrients plants normally take from the soil, in a favorable ratio and at a concentration high enough to prevent deficiencies, yet low enough that the concentration of nutrients in the soil solution isn't high enough that it inhibits the uptake of water and the nutrients dissolved therein. To me, that sounds like you need a plan if you want to be on target. Leaving it to chance by letting the soil feed the plant might be ok in the yard or orchard, but it's not going to get the job done in pots. FWIW - using large fractions of compost in conventional container culture is usually fraught with water retention problems (as in too much), due to the fact that compost is all fine particles (or it's not finished and you probably shouldn't e using it for that reason). That you have the Rootmaker containers resting on the soil employs the earth as a giant wick, and from a hydrological perspectives turns the containers into mini raised beds - which changes the way water behaves in those containers. You can use soils that are much more water-retentive and get away with it in raised beds, where the same soil in conventional containers would be limiting due to its excess water retention. Al...See MoreProper Fertilizer for container citrus?
Comments (17)For the first 15 years or so of growing/propagating citrus (Meyer Lemon mostly) I used whatever fertilizer was on sale or free (Miracle Grow, Fish Emulsion and stuff with no name). The plants were ok but since joining this forum and following, as best possible, the advice from members my plants have improved. Even the "old" ones. Here are some of the fertilizers I found, and am using now: Citrus Tone by Espoma 5-2-6 calcium - 2% Magnesium - .5% Sulfur - 1% **also incl colony forming microbe species Vigoro Citrus & Avocado 12-5-8 + minors (slow release) Magnesium - 1% Sulfur - 8.5% Boron - .02% copper - .05% Iron - 1% Manganese - .05% Molybdenum - .0005% Zinc - .05% Vigor Palm, Ixora & Ornamental 8-4-8 + minors Sulfur - 3% Boron - .02% Copper - .05% Iron - .8% Manganese - 1% Molybdenum - .0005% Zinc - .05% Also using Southern Ag Citrus Nutri Spray Magnesium - 1% Sulfur - 4.1% Iron - 1.2% Manganese - 1.2% Zinc - 1.7% I have not "flushed" the containers on purpose but will pay attention to it. Not sure what to look for as an indicator of SALT BUILD-UP? Thanks to all and Good Growing!!! htp...See MoreRelated Professionals
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