This is a Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata), a common indoor ornamental plant. According to the picture, the problem on the leaves may be caused by the following reasons:

Watering problem:

Overwatering: The roots of Fiddle Leaf Fig are prone to rot due to excessive water, causing the leaves to turn yellow, wither and develop brown spots.

Insufficient watering: If the soil is dry for a long time, the leaves will also wither and have burnt edges.

Insufficient humidity:

Fiddle Leaf Fig likes a humid environment. If the air humidity is too low, the leaf edges may turn brown and dry.

Lighting problem:

Insufficient light: Fiddle Leaf Fig needs plenty of indirect light. If there is insufficient light, the leaves may lose their luster and begin to wither.

Direct sunlight: Strong direct sunlight may cause the leaves to be burned, with brown spots or burnt edges.

Pests and diseases:

Fiddle Leaf Fig is susceptible to leaf spot disease or bacterial infection, which may cause brown spots on the leaves.

Check the back of the leaves for pests, such as spider mites or scale insects.

Environmental stress:

Excessive temperature changes (such as cold wind or direct air conditioning).

Repotting or moving the plant may cause leaves to wilt in the short term.

Solutions:

Adjust watering: Make sure the soil is slightly dry before watering, and do not let water accumulate at the bottom of the pot.

Increase humidity: You can spray around the plant or use a humidifier to maintain air humidity.

Provide appropriate light: Place the plant in bright indirect light and avoid direct strong light.

Check for pests and diseases: Check the leaves carefully and deal with pests in time (you can wipe them with alcohol or spray them with a suitable insecticide).

Prune damaged leaves: Use sterilized scissors to cut off severely damaged leaves to prevent the spread of diseases.

Avoid drastic temperature changes: Keep the room temperature stable (18-24°C) and avoid cold wind or direct air conditioning.

If these problems persist or worsen, it is recommended to check the root condition, and the soil may need to be changed or replanted.

Man, that looks like AI.

Apparently it does not know about the mite.

Just here to say that AI reply freaks me out!

Some of the injury appears to be mechanical, caused by things like wind, rough handling, a cat, etc). Some is oedema (aka edema).

Something about oedema, which is a symptom of underlying cultural stresses which limit normal root function:

Oedema (aka edema) is a physiological disorder that can affect all terrestrial plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.

Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady.

Some things that can help you prevent oedema:

* Increase light levels and temperature

* Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems.

* Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity.

* Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.

* Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants.

It wouldn't be particularly difficult to put your plant on a path to a significantly higher level of vitality (health), but it would require much more info than you initially provided. Some of the larger areas of necrotic spots are likely related to a culturally induced deficiency of Ca(lcium). Over and under-watering limit the amount of Ca available in the nutrient stream. When Ca levels are insufficient, cell walls cannot form normally. When cell walls fail, cell contents leak into inter-cellular spaces causing the larger cork-like dead spots and sometimes holes in leaf tissue. More accurate info is the key to winnowing down the potential causes to arrive at a probable cause which is very likely related to root health/function.

Al (not AI)