One of my goals when designing my bottom-heating fixture was to keep operating costs low. For that reason, and to even out the heat, I decided to wire two incandescent light sockets in series. The waterbed heater sounds like a good idea, but I wonder how much electrical power it uses. I also wonder how much it costs to run the heating cable. I disagree with joezkool about the shock hazard of series-connected bulbs. First of all, you should unplug the cord when changing light bulbs. Second, if you happened to get shocked as he stated, the socketed light bulb may act as a resistance, limiting the current flow through your body. Regarding the dimmer: When you operate a dimmer at the low end of it's settings, it can be triggered off by a power surge or sag. You may wake up one cold morning and find that your plants froze from lack of heat at night. I prefer a more reliable system. With the series-connected lights there is the danger that one of the lights would burn out, and therefore the other light would not burn. However, by operating the bulbs at half-power (because they're wired in series), they will last longer than their rated life. Still, you can replace the bulbs after a given number of hours if you wish. Joezkool's suggestion of using two smaller-wattage bulbs wired normally (in parallel), is a good one. If one bulb burns out, at least the other will still provide some heat to protect your plants. All things considered, the series connected bulbs may be the cheapest to build, and more importantly, the cheapest to operate. John

Please see my two posts on March 30, 2014. Only the earliest of hybrids released had two parents,and both parents are known for some of them. Later hybrids can have up to 4 parental inputs in each breeding line,as I explained in a previous posts I mentioned above so 8 parental inputs in each line.The last one in each line is crossed with the last one in the other line to make the stable F1 hybrid. Yes,there are many companies that breed F1 hybrids,mostly in the Netherlands and Israel and Japan and China,some still in the US such as Petoseed,which does custom breeding for Burpee although Burpee now has some breeders back in PA but I don't know of any releases yet,and do so since commercial farmers want F1 hybrids and preferably determinate ones to facilitate machine harvesting and those in areas want ones with tolerance,no such thing as total resistance,where soilborne diseases are found,which is not in all places of the US.. Companies don't breed OP heirloom varieties, for that would be the antithises of the word heirloom and let us NOT get into a discussion of what an heirloom is or is not,I mean you can,but there are many threads here already about that,no one definition,and I'm out on that subject.,LOL. Heirloom tomato varieties are sourced from many places and most of them,well maybe some,end up being listed in the SSE Annual Yearbooks,where they are then available to SSEmembers. To date I've grown about 4,000 plus heirloom varieties and have in introduced close to 300 new ones from various sources myself. And if you look at Tania's superb data website she has individual pages for about 5,000 now and taking all the ones that are in seedbanks in different countries there are probably close to 20,000, I should live so long being 77 this June.LOL

As they turn red you pick them, when ripe they roll off into your hand easily. Good eating,

The OP's house has some small traditional features and it has a gable roof but its definitely not a Cape. A Cape always has a roof steep enough for a second story under the rafters with windows only in the gable ends. The entrance is always under the roof eave; a full cape has 2 windows each side of the door, a 3/4 cape has one on one side and two on the other, a half cape has a window each side of the door. You can drive for a mile through E. Oleans, MA and see very few houses that are not true capes. One story elements are sometimes added to the sides but rarely porches or dormers. Only a realtor would call the OP's house a cape. A Field Guide to American Houses classifies the OP's house as "Minimal Traditional" which is part of a larger category: "Modern" houses.