Ok, whatever. I'm still waiting for somebody to stop by my house with a pair of snips, lol. I'd pretty much let anybody go to town on anything large enough to block the path. Here are some things that need thinning: Lonicera sempervires 'Sulphurea' Jasminum multiflora Thunbergias alata and grandiflora Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Yellow Star' and 'Variegata' T. asiaticum and T.a. 'Variegata' Passiflora caerulea, incarnata and 'Lavender Lady' Bignoia capreolata 'Miss Jeckyll'(maybe a mislabeled 'Mosaic', though) Salvia uliginosa Malvaviscus arboreus Hibiscus syriacus, pink Odontonema strictum Piper auritum Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Capatiola', 'Cooperii', 'Red Hot', and some unnamed, colors and white. Hibiscus acetocella Meyer's Lemon Buddleja alternifolia Ruellia brittonia, pink and blue. You can pull as many of these out as you can carry. Crocosmia crocomifolia, ditto. Brugmansia suavolens, bring the BIG loppers, lol. Quisqualis indica................. Oh, yeah. A friend had me cut back her massive plumerias yesterday and gave me most of the cuttings. I've been handing them out like candy. Really, come get 'em, lol.... I made some offers for postage. One person sent their's, no word from one, one didn't understand how to use PayPal. Sigh. I guess I'll have two boxes of cuttings to stick unless I just toss them.

Thank you for the reply, lehuan13! Although I didn't find very much information or get any other replies, I think I'm figuring out how to do it. I rented a "stand on "trencher (Compact Power Pro)from Home Depot, but it was too small. It took me almost 3.5 hours to trench and 18" deep trench about 40'. A few weekends later I rented a 30+ horsepower Ditchwitch. The first one I rented ended up developing a hydraulic leak (due to nothing I did, two pipes were rubbing together) less than half way through the trenching process. Luckily, the rental place simply gave me a complete refund. I rented another a few weeks later and finished the trenching with only one problem: I kind of got stuck for a while. One of my buddies came and pulled me out the next day, and I finished the trenching. Up to this point, I haven't backfilled yet, and it was a good thing I didn't. I had a bad joint and had to repair it. I purchased another pressure take off of Craigslist, and then I bought a booster pump with an attached flow switch from Harbor Freight. Hopefully the booster pump will work. Im also debating on whether or not to install a transformer in the well house to feed both the submersible well and the booster pump. I ve got 10 or 12 gauge wire run to the well house, Im just not sure if it could handle the two pumps running simultaneously, but on the other hand, at this point Im not sure if the current wire could run a transformer My well house looks like it may just be big enough for the two pressure tanks and the booster pump, but it's going to be close. Within the next few weeks I'll figure out if I need to enlarge the well house. Odds are I probably will have to enlarge it, but we'll see. I also intend to TRY and drill another well to supply the irrigation lines. I've got a buddy that bought a Deeprock hydra drill and is drilling his own well. When he gets done, I'll buy it from him and try and drill my own. My own well is about 330' deep, but the Deeprock only goes down to 200'. I'm not sure how deep I need to go, but I only want go deep enough to get surface water. We'll see--trial by error!!

In order to properly compute the FHL (Friction Head Loss) we need to know both the length of the run and the expected gpm of flow. You stated that you are installing a lawn hydrant and continuing the line on to the barn, where I am assuming you will install a second hydrant to protect the valve from freezing in winter. Hydrants are a variation of a hose bibb and according to the load table in the code hose bibbs are rated at 5gpm. I am computing the FHL as a two part problem because the line begins at the house (or other source) and runs 100' to the hydrant, then continues on to the barn, so the first 100' of the line has to carry the total combined load of 10gpm to the hydrant, then it is only carrying 5gpm from the hydrant to the barn. To give you an illustration of how great the effects of FHL are; let us first consider what would happen if you ran a 1/2" line. For a 1/2" line @ 10gpm the FHL in the first 100' to the hydrant would be 82psi, and @ 5gpm the FHL from the hydrant to the barn would be another 17.58psi for a total loss of 109.58psi. As you can see, even if you had the maximum 80psi at the source end, you would be lucky to get anything better than gravity flow at the barn. Code minimum for a "water supply line" to a structure is 3/4" so let us see what this will give us. A 3/4" line @ 10gpm has a FHL of 20psi/100' so the pressure at the hydrant would be 20psi less than the source pressure. A 3/4" line @ 5gpm from the hydrant to the barn would be another 4.29psi loss, so the pressure at the barn would then be 24.29psi less than the source pressure and unless you have exceptionally high pressure at the source this would also prove to be very unacceptable. If you run 1" line with both the lawn hydrant and the hydrant at the barn open at the same time the loss would be 6.02psi at the hydrant and 8.31psi at the barn hydrant, however we still don't know what the actual dynamic pressure (pressure under flow) is at the source. If the source pressure is below 40psi under flow an 8.31psi drop is significant, especially if you anticipate adding a 50' hose at the barn. Now let us pour a cup of coffee and think about this whole project for a moment. First off, you only want to have to do this once in your life and second, when compared to the cost of excavation and installation labor the actual price of PE pipe is relatively cheap. If you were to run an 1-1/2" line from the source to the hydrant the FHL for the first 100' of the run would only be 0.72psi and if you then continued from the hydrant to the barn with an 1-1/4" line the FHL would be 0.33psi for a total combined loss of 1.05psi with both the lawn hydrant and the barn hydrant open simultaneously. This means that even with the lawn hydrant in use, a hose at the barn would still have about the same working pressure as a hose connected to a hose bibb at your house. Now let us consider the cost of the excavation. If you are overly ambitious you can take it from an old man who has been there and done that, you could dig the trench by hand and save some money, But take it from experience. That would involve about 3 days of arduous back breaking, mind numbing work, and you still have to lay the pipe and backfill. I can assure you, by the time you finish that project, the price of renting a machine looks cheap. The question then becomes, what machine do you need? Certainly a backhoe can do it, but unless you already have one on the farm a backhoe is way too much overkill for this project. The preferred machine would be a ditch witch type trencher. If you are not familiar with them they are a small machine that has a digger blade on the rear end that looks like a super size chain saw blade. The size of trencher you would need depends upon how deep you need to put the line. (6" below your average frost depth). If you live in a region where you only have a foot or 18" of frost they have a small walk behind unit that would do fine. If you need to go deeper they have larger models that are on four wheels and you ride it. Nearly all of the riders also have a small push blade on the opposite end for backfilling, and some even have a mini backhoe to dig the holes where the hydrants will be. Here is a tip when renting machinery from your local tool rental company. Most of them charge a 1/2 day and a day rate, but if you rent the machine on a friday or saturday and have them deliver it to the site most of them do not deliver or pickup on weekends so they will drop it off Friday and pick it up Monday morning, but they only charge you for one day. Oh, here is another tip. When buying your pipe, check out TSC (tractor supply company). They sell a lot of PE pipe for farm water lines & irrigation lines so they keep a good stock and generally their price is much better than what you will find in the big box home supply. They also have the hydrants and all the fittings for PE pipe. Believe it or not, if you do the job with a moderate sized trencher one man should be able to complete your job in a single 8 or 10 hour day. And one final hint while I am thinking about it. Sometimes getting a barb fitting in PE pipe can be a little bit of a challenge but their is trick to it. When your ready to install the fittings get a 5gal bucket of hot water and soak the end of the pipe a bit to soften it before inserting the fitting. You will also need pea gravel to bed the hydrants in the bottom of the mounting holes. The pea gravel allows the water in the riser to drain out when the hydrant is closed so the riser won't freeze. They generally recommend making the hole about 2' in diameter and 2' deep than the hydrant position. You fill the hole with pea gravel up to the hydrant valve position, set the hydrant and add a bit more pea gravel, then I would cover the pea gravel with 6mil poly to prevent soil from working down and clogging the pea gravel, then backfill normally.

The line from the municipal main to the "Main Water Shutoff" in the house is classified as a "Supply Line". PVC pipe is approved for supply lines although it is rarely used. Prior to plastic pipe they used GIP (galvanized iron pipe), but now it is more common to use a continuous roll pipe such as Copper, PE (polyethylene) or PEX to eliminate buried joints, which is the leading cause of line failure. Most codes would prohibit making any taps into a supply line, however you may be able to get a variance providing the tapped line has both a "Curb Stop" and a "Backflow Preventer". The type of fitting used to make the tap would be determined by what type of pipe your supply line is made of. Also, before you run a line to the lawn hydrant you should compute the total developed length of the pipe and consult a "Friction Head Loss" chart to determine the required size of line to maintain full pressure to the hydrant.