Conestoga Rift sawn white oak - Natural finish is too red/pink/yellow
6 months ago
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- 6 months ago
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how do we finish white oak rift cut cabinets and preserve the nat
Comments (6)Try General Finishes High Performance Topcoat. I'm experimenting with it on red oak. It very much preserves the natural color of the wood. So much so that I'm wondering how to enhance the grain just a wee bit before I topcoat w/ it. No yellowing (on red oak) whatsoever. General Finishes contact phone # 800-783-8050. They're located in Wisconsin so Central Time Zone. I've called them before & will give them another call for suggestions on slightly enhancing the grain of red oak. It's available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. McFeeley's has the best price that I've found. McFeeley's Oh, the stuff is super easy to apply. (I'm using a foam brush but it's sposed to spray nicely, too.) The only complaints that I've read about it is that it maybe dries too fast. I ordered some extender but haven't tried it yet since I'm only doing small pieces so far. Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes High Performance Topcoat...See MoreReplace honey oak doors w/white oak quarter sawn?
Comments (7)I bought quarter sawn red oak cabinets for my previous kitchen and although the doors were quartersawn, the interior faces of the cabinets were regular red oak veneer. That's the way they were manufactured. Since the doors were full overlay, the parts of the cabinets that were not quartersawn were never really visible and I had "furniture" sides so those were also quartersawn. However, red oak and white oak are different species, with the white oak tending more towards browner tones. If I were you I would buy a sample door and see how the color match goes with your current boxes. Or you can buy an unfinished door and see if you can play with stain to match the color. You might be able to find a stain close to your current cabinets in tone that will be good with the honey oak. ....See Morerift cut white oak kitchen cabinets
Comments (25)@eliseharrison The caption in your first says something about being treated with "oil," which is another option for finishing, using Waterlox or another tung-oil based treatment rather than lacquer. An oil treatment that has tung oil as its base like Waterlox won't yellow as much as an oil treatment that has linseed oil as a primary ingredient. These oil finishes have to be re-applied and maintained, but I've done a fair amount of research on them, and Waterlox original finish is what we're planning to do in our kitchen on cherry cabinetry. A few cabinet companies use oil finishes like Waterlox exclusively. It creates a very natural surface, but the ambering and yellowing will still occur over time to an extent even with this method. If you wanted to go with a whitewashed finish, then yes, that might work for you to get the color you want, but it won't look natural. It obscures the depth and sheen of the natural wood if it is done sufficiently to alter the color permanently to obscure the natural ambering of the wood. Some people really like this method and have used it to get the light neutral color they want without going for a total painted finish. Just be sure to view samples in person so you're sure you like it. There is a type of white oak harvested in Europe that has a low tannin content and ages to a neutral, silvery tone, but it is expensive and difficult to obtain in the United States in quantities large enough for cabinetry work. If the budget is generous, you could look into that option with a water-based, non-yellowing lacquer finish to get a natural white wood look....See MoreContractor used red oak plain sawn to match original quarter sawn
Comments (10)Did they put a stain on the new section to try to make it match the old section? And did they refinish the wood floors in the old section at the same time, or just finish the new flooring? I am far from an expert in flooring, but it almost looks the there is a difference in stain or type of finish rather than a difference that is based on how the the boards are sawn. When we bought our house 5 years ago, it came with 60 year old red oak in our living and dining rooms that looks very similar in color to your old section. In two separate renovations since then, we replaced the floor in two adjacent rooms to match. In both cases, there is far less color difference than you see in yours. In the first case of our family room, it was a dead on match and you would never be able to tell at first glance from the color that the family room and living room were installed 60 years apart. In the second case, our new kitchen floor ended up being just a hair lighter than the existing floor, but it’s a pretty subtle difference that might be exaggerated by a bit of an optical illusion due to chance — the doorway where the kitchen and dining room meet ended up with the new section having a couple of the lightest boards butt up against a a couple of the darkest boards from the old section. In your case, I’d be tempted to get a second opinion from a flooring contractor to see if there is anything that could be done stain or finish-wise to better make the woods match, or if it is really a difference in the character of the wood, or the way the boards were sawn. EDIT: Added photos to give you a sense of how close the matches in our house are. First photo is living room/family room, other two are the kitchen....See MoreRelated Professionals
La Habra Interior Designers & Decorators · Des Moines Furniture & Accessories · Hastings Furniture & Accessories · Millbrae General Contractors · Newburgh General Contractors · Stoughton General Contractors · Tabernacle General Contractors · Waterville General Contractors · West Babylon General Contractors · Beavercreek Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Franconia Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Glen Allen Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · South Riding Cabinets & Cabinetry · Phelan Cabinets & Cabinetry · Lake Nona Tile and Stone Contractors- 6 months ago
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