Culver's root is hard to place
7 months ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (16)
7 months ago
7 months agoI know exactly what you are talking about mxk3. I have a clump next to the house that looks awkward and now the stems are falling to the ground. It could be cicada damage. I have a larger clump thats surrounded by similar clumping natives, and it looks better playing a supporting role instead of a star specimen. Even with the fancy lavender flowers, it still looks better as a costar. It can spread more beyond a clump if the conditions are favorable. It would maybe look better in your meadow?
This Culver's Root is spreading into and mingling with American Ipecac, Gillenia stipulata and Common Mountain Mint, Pycnanthemum virginicum. Makes a nice looking patch in a meadow or prairie.
Related Discussions
Help - Planted Japanese Maple with Hard Soil on Root Ball
Comments (7)EJR - I've advocated for the bare-rooting of trees at repot and transplant time for years, for the same reasons that Dr Scott mentions. I think though, that there are some broader considerations to take into account, aside from simply removing the soil from roots and transplanting as we please. Timing is an important consideration. It's best to repot and transplant temperate deciduous plants when they are not in leaf. Removing the soil from roots is often rather traumatic to fine, feeder roots. Many break, others, if you're not careful, quickly die from dessication, which takes only minutes on dry windy days, especially if you're working in the sun. The stress of summer transplants often sees trees shedding parts the roots cannot support, a survival mechanism in response to drought stress. While the idea you should prune the top in proportion with the roots at transplant/repot time is passe, it may actually be required if you attempt bare-root transplanting when conditions aren't favorable. You see, if WE don't select the branches/foliage to be 'shed', the tree will select them for us, and they use a different standard than the one we would choose - which is generally one based on appearance/symmetry. To minimize stress, I would wait until the tree loses its foliage; then I would lift, bare-root and transplant at an appropriate depth, back-filling with native soil. Al...See MoreWhat type of cutting (leaf/stem/semi-hard/hard/root) do you take?
Comments (3)Hi everyone! and thanks in advance to anyone that replies! Hi, and welcome to the discussions! I'm on a super tight gardening budget this year - and by super tight I mean the only way I'll be getting flowers/plants for my container garden is from taking cuttings/seeds from what I already have and what my friends/family are willing to let me take little "snips" of. Anybody with cash can go buy a truckload of beautiful blooms - even have someone plant and care for them. What you want to do takes love, patience, consistent effort, forethought, determination, and IMO, can be extremely satisfying. I'm fairly new to propagating from cuttings - I have Purslane and Blue Daze (Evolvus) down pat, but I don't know what type of cutting and when to take them from ... pretty much anything else, I don't know if it's even possible to take cuttings from some stuff. Here's a list of the plants I have at my "snipping" disposal - Here's my experiences with some of your list... Clematis ... I had 'the president' but it pooped out the first day it was 100 degrees - boo) Clems like to be in full sun with their roots cool. Next time, try placing a potted plant so that it shades your clem roots during the hottest part of the day. This may help it get going. Remove flowers after the petals fall off so the plant does not waste any energy making seeds. Clems take a few years to establish. They make seeds but it is uncertain if seeds will make the same flowers as the parent plant. Mulch is very helpful for Clems. Balloon flower (platycodon grandiflorus - just the regular one and P.g. 'Mariesii') - makes seeds that are ready when the seed pods develop openings at the top. A long-lived perennial. Hosta (32 jillion varieties) - divisions as soon as the summer heat passes or early spring. Hostas live for a LONG time. Columbine - makes seeds that are ready when the seed pods develop openings at the top. Individual plants are short-lived perennials. Canna (My grandpa is going to mow over them if I don't come dig them up this weekend - can you move them any time or will they just die? Most of his don't have flowers and I don't know if it's because he doesn't water or if it's because he mows over them almost every year - can you grow them in containers?) - makes tubers that can be moved about any time. If grandpa mows them, no big deal. I think the ground (vs. in a pot) is preferable for anything perennial in your zone. Try to put them somewhere where they won't be soggy all winter but will get plenty of water in the summer. Mowing and/or lack of water could both lead to lack of flowers. You can cut large tubers in half to make more, and each year the tubers get bigger and make "pups." They also make seeds but people don't always have an easy time trying to get these seeds to sprout. A long-lived perennial as long as the tubers don't rot in the winter. Jasmine (not sure on variety, it may have......See MoreRooting cuttings with hard water?
Comments (11)I have been rooting cuttings in water for more years the I care to admit. I have rooted in soil, peat moss, vermiculite and sand. I have rooted many different plants and IMO water works just as well as any other medium for plants like impatiens, coleus, and begonias. That said I used to have hard water and I never had a problem rooting cuttings in it. I like to use yogurt containers the tall thin type and I usually put about three cutting per container. I leave them on a windowsill above my sink. I check them every day and add water to the container if needed, when they have about a quarter inch of root sticking out from the stem, I poke a hole in the soil and stick them in. I have at least a dozen plants in my backyard containers that I've started like that in the last month. As far as where it came from, I imagine it's been going on for a very long time. It was probably a happy accident. I really don't understand why there is such a fuss made about it. I think it is a simple method that many people are comfortable with and if it works for them what difference does it make....See MoreA place to root in winter
Comments (10)I'm not konatiki, but I'm pretty sure he's got soil under those rocks, which I think he put there for stability. I do have a hard-to-root cutting myself in soil mix on an east-facing window sill. It's a mix of cactus soil and decomposed granite (for weight as the cutting is 24" tall), with large pebbles at the top like kona's for stability. Mine still hasn't rooted yet, but it is a notoriously difficult rooter. From what I understand Lei Rainbow is also very hard to root. Because the windowsill is only warm for 3-4 hours a day, I wrapped the base of the black plastic 1-gallon pot with Xmas lights to keep it consistently warm, which I was told is the most important factor for rooting. I also potted it over a whole raw egg at the bottom of the pot (for beneficial probiotics), and I mist the cutting twice a day. It's been getting slightly more wrinkled over the last few months, as the soil is bone dry, but it still feels rock hard when squeezed. I think it won't do much until the weather is consistently warmer in March. You might try the clear plastic water bottle method, too, which will allow you to see any roots that grow. Some people put holes in the bottom and give it one good watering, and some people put no holes and don't water at all, just rely on the moisture in the cactus mix to provide a tiny bit of water. But I think everyone uses bottom heat of some kind, especially in winter or spring. Good luck....See MoreRelated Professionals
Mountain Brook Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Summit Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Alexandria Landscape Contractors · Anderson Landscape Contractors · Berkeley Heights Landscape Contractors · Framingham Landscape Contractors · Melrose Park Landscape Contractors · Mission Landscape Contractors · Quincy Landscape Contractors · Raleigh Landscape Contractors · Santa Ana Landscape Contractors · Wilsonville Landscape Contractors · Goldenrod Landscape Contractors · San Pablo Landscape Contractors · Clearfield Landscape Contractors- 7 months ago
- 7 months agolast modified: 7 months ago
7 months ago- 7 months ago
7 months agoHere in a jam packed garden ;-). I like it near the heavy and tall phlox (‘Robert Pore’?), and the other heavies around it. I do need to stake it, though once I deadhead it (I don’t like the look of the seedheads), I can take the stakes away. It is massive now after our wet and cool spring, and no doubt the tops will flop in the daytime sun, but I don't water it all that often. This is last year September:
And right now:
- 7 months ago
7 months ago- 7 months ago
7 months ago- 7 months agolast modified: 7 months ago
- 7 months ago
I first saw CR for real at a wonderful garden of houzz member "Sunnyborders". He hasn't posted for so long. I hope he is ok and still gardening.
So as can be the case with me, I was obsessed with finding a place to plunk such a plant. So here I put it. This picture was from 4 years ago.
This plant was clearly healthy and vigorous but it did not belong there. I removed this particular specimen a couple of years back. - 7 months ago
- 7 months ago
Related Stories
ARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Spanish Eclectic Homes Find a Place in the Sun
Flexible stucco, intricate tiles and more have kept this multicultural style going strong for a century
Full Story
MODERN HOMESHouzz Tour: A Modern Home Rooted in Its Place
It's partially buried in the earth, but with a cantilevered roof and strong colors, this Ottawa home is anything but shy
Full Story
CENTRAL PLAINS GARDENINGGreat Design Plant: Culver's Root
Spiky summer blooms beloved by butterflies and architectural interest in winter make this Midwest native plant worth featuring in the garden
Full Story
ARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Midcentury Modern Design
Midcentury modern still charms with its linear forms and low-sloping roofs. Appreciate it now — such simplicity can be hard to replicate
Full Story
EARTH DAY‘Terroir’ Brings a Sense of Place to Your Landscape
Species native to and characteristic of your region firmly root your garden and landscape
Full Story
WINTER GARDENINGHow to Plant Bare-Root Roses
Late winter or early spring is a great time to put new roses into the ground
Full Story
REMODELING GUIDES8 Tips for Designing a Kitchen for Aging in Place
Discover the elements needed for a beautiful kitchen that functions fabulously for people of any age
Full Story
TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURERoots of Style: Pueblo Revival Architecture Welcomes Modern Life
Centuries-old details of adobe construction still appeal in the desert Southwest, adapted to today's tastes
Full Story
ARCHITECTURE'Houses of Maine' Puts Modernism in Its Place — in Nature
Set in the meadows and woods of Maine, the homes in this book give modern architecture a natural context
Full Story
LANDSCAPE DESIGNBackyard of the Week: Woodland Garden With Scandinavian Roots
A Boston landscape designer found on Houzz weaves in beautiful textures and layers of green to create an elegant space
Full Story
GardenHo_MI_Z5