We faced this same issue 1.5 years ago, and initially Wolf was one of our finalists. We wanted a very powerful induction unit for boiling & stirfry, which seems to be best in a single burner unit. We eliminated the Wolf because it is 2 burner, with the larger burner in the rear (less convenient), and less powerful than others available, but this criteria may not apply to your situation. You may be able to mix the Wolf gas cooktop that you like with an induction cooktop with the same footprint as the Wolf induction, such as the Gaggenau or Miele. Also look into the suitability of a module from Diva or Cooktek. We ultimately decided upon a DCS 36" range paired with 15" Gaggenau induction & teppanyaki cooktops. You should be aware that the Gagg induction unit usually has its control knob installed in the front, like a range or rangetop, although I have heard of at least one kitchen with it mounted on the countertop to the side, but that could interfere with drawer space. We're very pleased with the Gagg induction power but not at all pleased with the hum it makes, which Gagg describes as "audible". However, this does get masked with our VAH on, which we always use when boiling or stirfrying.

This is something many folks face during a kitchen remodel. What is the most important thing, budget, appliances, recoup $ w/resale? You mentioned, small home that was not expensive. Is your fear of not recouping the $ if you put in high end appliances? If you expressed that your ready for the next level, plus you would want a wok, high btu and charbroil...(you didn't mention rotisserie or self clean). That comes with a price tag. You stated thoughts of rangetop w/ cheaper wall oven. If you have or foresee any bending/back problems, go for rangetop/wall oven. Just remember that the rangetop and cheaper wall oven will require gas and/or electrical upgrade, wall oven cabinet, rangetop cabinet and additional installation fees. On top of the price of the rangetop and wall oven, could cost as much as a range alone. If you really want the high end cooking appliances, be very cost conscious about the other elements in the kitchen. Frig, d/w, micro, sink, counters, flooring, lighting, faucets and cabinets. You don't have to break the bank. For all the money your spending, you should be pleased when you enter the kitchen. I would recommend you stick with gas. I own a 48in CC range, single Capital wall oven, Samsung CD frig and KA d/w. Good Luck

The comments about ten-power settings got me musing on the subject and about Amy's initial question about logarithmic power controls. Here's where that lead me. Nobody really has logarithmic power controls, but there can be power settings spaced to sort of approximate a logarithmic curve -- a number of settings at the low end with only a couple of additional points needed to define the steep side of the curve for really high heat. In theory, that can be done with a ten-step power curve and some folks do find 10 power settings fine for what and how they cook. Others do not. Is anybody else here old enough to remember the GE stoves and cooktops from 50's and 60's with ten mechanical pushbuttons for heat settings? Those pushbuttons were literally "digital" controls, meaning that you punched them with one of your digits. GE sold a lot of them for a couple of decades, so some people found them adequate. Some did not. For the current digital electronic ten-step controls, others here besides loonlakecamp have reported satisfaction with a ten step set-up. Others, like me, would find them inconvenient for my cooking with, say, my pressure cookers. With only ten heat level steps, I would have to be constantly switching settings to maintain the correct pressure. Power setting "1" might be too low, setting "2" might be too high. Switch to 1 for a while until the pressure drops a little too low, switch to 2 for a while until it gets a little too high, then back to 1, etc., etc. With in-between settings, I avoid that annoyance. You don't use pressure cookers? Then maybe having in-between steps won't matter to you. This is just one example of how cooking styles can differ and how more settings can matter to one cook and not to another. Much fuss is sometimes made about the supposedly infinite adjustablity of gas burners. As a practical matter, though, we mostly try to get the burner to the same relatively few settings. Searing is pretty much searing, isn't it? If you deep fat fry, how often would you care if if the oil were at 352° instead of 350°? But maybe somebody is working with sugar syrups where, say, it might matter if a syrup is at 325° and not 360° and then maybe it matters if the induction burner only has ten settings. That said, the subject of induction power settings and controls can be more complicated than just the number of settings. The need for finding "in-between" steps for induction cooking can reflect two different aspects of ways that manufacturers design induction burner controls. One consideration is the power cycling that all induction burners use for settings of less than full power. A technical term for this is "pulse width modulation. or "PWM." It is the same kind of thing a microwave does for low heat levels---momentary pulses of power that average out at a particular heat level. With most PICs as well as some brands of induction cooktops and ranges, the PWM is pretty crude. I've seen this somewhere described as firing up the burner for a second or two of omigosh hot and then switching totally off for three or four seconds. While these pulses average out at a certain heat level the timing can be problematic for, say, the srambled eggs that Amy mentioned at the outset. Combine that kind of "low frequency" PWM with the crude power controls found on many PICs, and you could have a reason that Amy would find herself wanting steps in-between power level "1" and "2" for scambling eggs. Some full size induction ranges and cooktops work this way. I noticed a lot of pulsing at the low heat settings on the Maytag induction range I saw demoed several years ago when I was stove shopping. From past threads on PWM, I gather than Whirlpool's induction ranges and cooktops (which include Maytag and Kitchenaid brands) have used crude PWM. For searching out past threads here on this subject try a search strings like "induction + pulsing + gardenweb" and "induction + cycling + gardenweb." A few of the expensive PICs (Cooktek, Garland, Vollrath) and many full size ranges and cooktops use much higher frequency PWM. Instead switching on and off for a second or more at time, the power switches on and off many times per second. The higher frequency of switching yields much finer power control that more closely approximates a steady heat level. The other design aspect that can lead to wanting "in-between" settings is in how the engineers program the electronic controllers to space the power settings on the appliance you are using --- that's the kind of logarithmic curve I thnk Amy may been thinking about when she posed her question in the original post. . For manufacturers, the least costly controls use simple linear spacing. Setting "1" would use the PWM to average 10% power, setting "2" would be 20%, etc. Even with a high quality PWM, though, 9 or 10 linear settings may be too crude, A thing most induction users discover pretty quickly is that they do most of their cooking in the low to medium range settings. The highest setting can be used for boiling. One or two medium high settings takes care of high heat applications like searing. There seem to be three strategies for induction manufacturers to address the crudeness. One is to add half-steps between the numbered power settings. The other is to program the stove's controllers to put more steps in the low to medium range and fewer in the high ranges. The third strategey combines the first two. Without using the particular induction stove or cooktop, it can be hard to find out whether the particular unit was designed to use one or the other or some combination of them. In my own somewhat limited experience, it seems that the GE induction appliances and Electrolux's Frigidaire/Kenmore ranges seemed to use a modified-half step approach with some concentration of steps but also using half steps for finer control. The Electrolux-branded models use a slightly different approach with quarter-steps at the lower power ends and fewer steps at the high end. Miele cooktops seem to use a similar kind of mix with the option of switching on more steps. I'm not sure how BSH (which includes Bosch) handles this except that their induction appliances manuals show that half-steps are available. The Samsung freeestanding induction ranges seemed to follow the GE model (19 half steps). The reports about Samsung's ten-step "Chef Collection" model seem to conflict, some seeming to say that stepping is linear, some hinting that the settings may be skewed to the lower end. There is a yet another strategy which is the near infinite stepping of of potentiometer-like controls. These control systems seem to be very expensive so, AFAIK, they are used only for the commercial Garland/Manitowiac PICS and maybe the new Miele induction range have this. I say "maybe" for the Miele because there is nothing about it in the product literature and the display shows only whole-number settings, but a couple of posters here -- livinginseattle is the name I recall -- have reported finding that the knobs can be turned to provide fine gradations of "in-between" settings. Some folks would find that ideal. Then the question becomes: how much are you willing to spend for the "ideal" (and are there other design compromises that have to accept in order to get that ideal function for the burners?)

AVOID MIELE RANGES. UNRELIABLE UNITS. TERRIBLE SERVICE. We've had Miele dishwashers for literally decades; they have been great, trouble-free performers. Not so the 36" gas range that we bought for a kitchen reno in 2016. The design is nice and the basic functionality is great, but the reliability is the absolute pits. MIele released this line of products before they were ready for prime time. And Miele knows it. We have had burners replaced several times for ignition failures. Last time around the technician replaced all six burners with "upgrades" (I'm guessing, redesigns that cure the faults of the original burners). The little part that detects when the oven door is closed and shuts off the broiler if it's open? It melted when the (extremely hot) broiler was on for more than a few minutes. The rubber feet for the grates constantly disintegrate; we've gone through literally a dozen of them. And now that our unit is out of warranty, Miele wants $32 each for replacements (and there are no aftermarket parts available anywhere). The latest problem is the oven door latch mechanism, which has failed so that the unit will not go into self-clean mode. Making matters worse, Miele's service operation was gutted during the pandemic and has not recovered. Their call center is offshore somewhere, and the people are clueless about the products. As for the technician dispatch in NJ ... don't get me started. Totally dysfunctional. The techs themselves are highly competent ... when you can actually get someone to come. Constant scheduling screwups, technicians not being told what parts to bring, several week lead times, etc. Their service is beyond unacceptable for a premium-priced brand. And we have yet to find a third-party repair service that will work on Miele ranges (dishwashers yes, ranges no). I'm sorely tempted to throw the thing out and go with Blue Star or Wolf. AVOID.