Hey, Plantme, good morning! I see you got the code down! Re: Light- It can't be getting enough light if it looks as it does. The downward and/or droopy growth is characteristic of plants that don't receive enough light. The pot is not too small... However, I *prefer* to grow large Jades in larger containers. Of course, the potting mix must be gritty and fast-draining if a larger container (and, thus, greater soil-volume) is used. You can prune the Jade's branches to any length. The bands are nodes; the spaces betwixt are internodes. Cut in the middle of the internode - the cut piece will shrivel, dry up, and fall off naturally as the callus forms at the node beneath. New growth, generally a pair of branches, will emerge from each cut-point. Josh

Thank you all for the prompt responses. First of all, yes, I'm new to succulents. I've had no interest in growing anything that couldn't survive outside all year in my native climate until recently. I've specifically become enamored with crassulas (largely because it was a mature jade given to me that kick-started the obsession). In the last two months, I've poured over these forums on a daily basis, done quite a bit of research elsewhere, and it's gotten to the point where almost everything I read I've already learned, digested, taken notes on, etc. I understand I can't gain experience on the internet, but I'm going to milk what it can offer me for all it's worth. Why do I want to separate the trunks? Because I work with bonsai, and I want to train these as "large" bonsai. I agree that aesthetically it looks great now, but I won't like the way this plant will look in the future if I leave both trunks there. I know that much. I would also prefer the plant puts all its growth into the one trunk as soon as possible. The bigger they get, and the closer their bases grow together, the harder this is going to be down the line. I didn't think this would be a big deal. And if it is, fine. I'll just whack one trunk off above the soil line and try to root it. I'm not offended (really), but not sure why this would be considered overly ambitious. To clear up confusion on my #2 point: I was concerned that if I were to cut these in half (beneath the soil line) that I would run the risk of the plants rotting after I planted them and eventually resumed watering them. They BOTH would have roots already attached, but BOTH would need to heal the separation cut before being watered. While it's claimed that I haven't learned that "your new plant can stand to be bare root for a while, does it no harm at all. As long as it's not in direct sun & is kept DRY, it can be out of mix for a while", I actually have learned this. I've read that and learned that, but it's always phrased similarly. This stuff is all relative. What's a "while"? With other plants, that could refer to a few hours. The plant has been uprooted and dry for a 8 days now. Specifics can be rare when you start looking for them. That's where my confusion comes from. I was never concerned about a week, but two? three? If I were to cut them in half, I would have to leave them unwatered for even longer. What's my limit? As for my plucked leaf theory... the more leaves that were plucked, the softer and wrinklier the branch. (And that's no stretch, it's plain as day). It's the only variable that was changed. I'm just not sure why seeming "anxious" or "ambitious" prevents me from learning how to properly execute a procedure on a notoriously "easy" plant to work with. I've worked successfully with much trickier plants for many years. I can plant the jade as it is, care for it perfectly for years and years, but I'm not going to learn a thing about separating trunks beneath the soil until I ask about it, learn about it, and do it. Right? I'll be right back here asking the same thing, which can be soiled down to: "how risky is this?" If it's obvious I don't "get" some things, please point me in the right direction to acquire that knowledge. After months of reading, I think I get the "basics" (and am tired of reading them, as I'm sure you're all tired of posting them). I just have some specific questions, because I AM ambitious, and eager, and curious. That's why I'm reading the manuals, so to speak, before doing anything I'll later regret. I'm sure everyone can understand that. Oh yeah. As for the cuttings not holding water? They are not potted up. I was advised to let them callus over for at least a week before doing that. It's funny, actually, because they are "standing up DRY in an empty clay pot in the shade". Or were, rather. I moved them inside earlier today, since the trunks have lost 20% of their size in that environment. Thank you, again, for all the responses. I hope my tone isn't too defensive, just trying to clear some things up. I really appreciate the responses. Gray

I haven't encountered this, but the article I attached below indicates that new growth on Jade can be either to a wound response or from 'residual meristem' (where leaves were once attached.) Unfortunately the article is not complete (unless you pay over $35, and it is mostly discussing growth of new plants from leaves I know the following can be done for apple trees. Never tried it for Jade. Find on the Jade stem where leaves were formerly attached. Take a sharp knife and above where a eaf was attached remove a shallow wedge of tissue. Do not cut all the way around the stem, nor cut too deep. The goal (on apple at least) is to remove a small amount of Cambium between the current growth point (higher on the plant,) and the dormant bud. This will block the chemical suppression the current growth point puts on dormant buds. On apple it doesn't always work and the younger the stem, the better it works. If you try this, let us know if it works on Jade! (I've never seen a Jade with a 16" stem (much less a 4 inch one).) Chris Here is a link that might be useful: Bontantical Gazette - 1976

wow! I'm glad I asked. I was about to cut up the other one, too. So, just to be clear--I have the two sister plants--one that I cut up, and one that I held back on. I agree with you that this looks similar to underwatering--but I do remember it looking a bit underwatered not long ago, and giving it lots of water to perk up, so I'm fairly certain that it's overwatered (especially since I'm squeezing water out of the wilted leaves). Just to make sure--despite that the very bottom near the trunk is quite squishy now, judging by the inside of the sister plant after I cut it up, maybe I'll hold off on cutting up this one for the time being --- but I should trim the roots of BOTH plants (?) here is the plant still in one piece, that currently still is squishy on the base stem right near the roots: And if you're curious, here is everything I have from the sister plant that I already cut up (i assumed the base trunk was rotten, so made several mini trees out of it)--I assume (hope) I cut them in a good spot, but can still correct if it doesn't look good: Per your suggestion, I trimmed the little portruding piece of branch off the trunk and see if the trunk comes back to life (maybe I got too close?). Here it is now: I think the cuttings for this are clean and not rotting. They are basically firm. Maybe I'll give them a little bonsai wire in addition to some rocks so they can stand up... As far as repotting--the rocks in the white container were just decorative on top of the soil, and just got mixed up. I use 50/50 perlite/succulent soil---in fact, I think you taught me that a couple of years back! :) .... I would be curious if you have an opinion on using rooting hormone on the stem. I notice in your other thread you suggest cinnamon... would either one suffice? Here is what I have: also--some websites--including some of the threads here--say that I should wait to repot until roots are showing.... but that could take weeks, I would think. Is it ok to repot without roots? Maybe I should use more perlite in that case (75/25)? Anyway, thanks again! I'll be interested to know your final thoughts, and I'll give you an update down the road and let you know how the jades are doing!!!! :)