" I don't know why they don't do it differently but it probably saves on product and is easier. I was upset that they did it that way at my mom's." They did it that way because they had to. Where else are you going to get pattern matching material? You must make the miter out of the immediately adjacent material to get a match. Look at driftdown's drawing again. Even if you could somehow stop the miter cut before you get to the "should not have been cut" area, from what material are you going to make the small mitered edge for the "SNHBC" return? The matching material to make that small edge has been used to make the "L" miter. It can't be used twice or be in two places at once. Mitering the top from corner to corner doesn't solve anything either, for the same reason. The only thing that could have been done differently and may have looked better is to have run the seam with, instead of against, the grain of the stone, but you're still gonna lose the 2". It is impossible to avoid.

I am picky too and understand your concern. I am not an expert on granite and had it installed for the first time in March. The seam was a big concern for me as well. My granite is bianco romano. I do not know if seams look better with certain types of stone. I am pleased with my seam as its not very noticeable. I also don't catch my nail on it all. I placed a penny to the left of the seam. From your photo, it appears your seam is kind of eye catching. Sorry. =( But then it might be the lighting. Here is a photo of my seam.

If you can bump out the window (make it bow or bay casement) then definitely do it. I think a bow window would look less different from other windows outside. Also, if you can make it wider than the sink do it. Extra width would avoid splashing on side frames. We have a double casement window over the sink, about 45 x 45 in., with stained wood frame. It's not bumped out. I so wish it was! I could definitely use the extra space behind the sink. We have 2 3/4 inches between the faucet and the wall and 2 inches between countertop and the bottom of the window frame. The frame is 4 inches thick (bottom to where the glass starts), very detailed, multi-level (multiple thin vertical and horizontal surfaces). And there is a 4 inch wide frame separating the 2 casement windows, in the middle, behind the faucet. Each window has a handle on the bottom for opening it. The handle does stick out and I need to move the dishwashing soap bottle every time I want to open the window. We also have a screen in one of the windows. The window is behind the 25 inch deep countertop, so we never had a problem bumping it with anything - it's just too far away. But is does get splashed - water, grease, etc. every time we wash anything. The sink is only 6 1/2 inches deep, so if you get a deeper sink you might have less splashing. The glass is easy to clean, but the screen and all that multi-level wood trim get sticky and are not easy to clean. As we plan our remodel we cannot change this window, bump it out, or move it higher over the countertop. The designer suggested we remove part of the bottom frame (actually a separate trim piece, maybe 2 inches thick) and add a ledge, a thin shelf, between the faucet and the window. I like wood trim and I don't think it would look as good with the bottom one "missing". I do like the idea of having a ledge though. All the windows in the house are Pella casement, 26 years old, and are fine. I am going to add a 2nd window to the kitchen to get more natural light, across from this window, that will be over prep countertop. It will also be Pella and match well, except now they make the handles hide flat when not used, which is very nice. Unfortunately these handles cannot replace the ones in the old windows. If I had a chance to change that window I would bump it out. I would not suggest you do a not bumped out counterheight window wood frame unless you will wipe it clean daily. Also, you will need to be very exact on the height measurements. If you put tile or wood on the floor it will raise your base cabinet height. We will be replacing vinyl with tile and our 2 inches between countertop and the bottom of the window frame might become 1 1/4 inches. We have laminate now, both countertop and backsplash under the window, and I don't see any problems with seams. Now I just need to figure out what sink and faucet to get, how tile backsplash and undermounted sink will affect the distances, where to place the faucet, and how to make a ledge that will protect the wood, look good, and be practical, not be bumped by hands operating the faucet or the window handles... I hope reading about my problems will help you figure out how to avoid them!

Yeah, ours is a softer black, so the marker was much too dark. Being able to feel the seam in the few areas is more bothersome to me. Not sure I can do anything about that. I'll see if I can find a dark gray marker and just dab it in spots rather than making a line which would look horrible. Carrie, there's a lot of glare in your pic, so I'm not sure where the seam is. Can you take a pic without a flash?