As mentioned earlier, there is already some resistance present in the American elm population. Several resistant trees have been identified (showing various degrees of resistance), and there are surely more growing in the wild that have not been identified. Evolution is defined as the change over time in the genetic variation in a population. If some heritable phenotype (characteristic) becomes more or less prevalent in a population, evolution has occurred. In the case of elm trees, resistance to DED has certainly become more prevalent, since such a large percentage of susceptible trees have died. So, evolution has occurred. In this case, it does not take very long, since the genetic variation for resistance was already present in the population. Several resistant cultivars are available, and they are being planted by homeowners and parks all over the place. Pollen from these trees will surely speed up the distribution of DED resistance into the wild populations. You are correct that susceptible trees reach reproductive age before they succumb to DED. It is possible that new mutations which confer resistance will arise in that segment of the population, but there is no telling how long that will take. Such an estimate would require a lot of information that is just not available. In any case, I suspect this path wil be much slower than the one facilitated by the widespread planting of the various resistant cultivars. WRT to the DED genome project, I suspect that is more likely to lead to treatments for susceptible trees, rather than the development of DED resistant trees. An interesting quote from the link above: "itâÂÂs only a matter of time before most the elm trees are gone". I've got some news for you.....most of the elms are already gone! Alex

I grow Western Sword Ferns by the dozen...not because they're my favorite, but because they're native to my area, and so always available. They're definitely hardy here, but we only dip down below 20°F a few nights out of the year - and we get about three light dustings of snow per winter. Western Sword ferns are also fairly drought tolerant. I plant them all over the place, although full sun will make them look ratty. Make sure to allow enough room, too - these ferns aren't exceptionally tall, but they are wide. Let me see if I have any good pics in photobucket already.... Well, I'll have to take some better pics later.

I, too, am a planted native of Western WA. Throughout my childhood and youth, I foraged for berries all over Western WA. Now, in my own garden, although the majority of my plants are non-native, I have a lot of native plants interspersed here and there, that have volunteered and that I have nurtured, including both red and evergreen huckleberry and oregon grape, trilliums, etc. I have had all the berry plants growing in everything from complete shade to lots of sun. From my berry picking days, to my own plants, I can tell you that, even though they will grow in the shaded understory of the forest, the plants that produce the most berries, by far, are the ones that get more sun, and the more the better. This holds true for the flowering currents. As a berry picker, you always try to find a good thicket at the edge of the woods, with an eastern exposure. They really like several hours of morning sun. Sun exposure between 2 and 4 pm can kill young plants, but once established they can take that as well, if watered properly. I have a volunteer evergreen huckleberry growing out of a log in my back yard, in full sun, that is happy as can be. It gets enough water, because it's near a hardy fuchsia. A caution on fireweed (if that is what it really is). I have lived in Alaska, also, where it could almost be the state flower. It is a root runner and can be quite invasive, especially here in WA, where it doesn't get the winter cold to keep it in check. Salal, also a native, is also a root runner, but it is very hard to get established, if not growing there naturally. I have known people, whose yards are backed by a large forested area, that absolutely hate it. Regarding soil....all our native plants do like a highly organic, slightly acid soil. I have extremely light, sandy soil, which dries out very fast in the summer. My success with the natives has come from giving them a good, deep mulch of medium shredded bark, with fines in it. In the years I don't mulch I can really tell they are not happy. Good luck!

I agree with Party Music that the buffet line should be on both sides of table & have soup, corn, then stew,(do they make it with flatbread or will they be already put together? I haven't had that so don't know how it's done.. Drinks I always prefer to be in 1 area ,not main food table as a spill can really slow things down. Cake table- cake,forks, napkins & maybe couple of small containers of flowers, any canoes available?? How about a couple of child sized moccasins. Make them out of felt & bead on the front of them(glue or sew on) put a plastic container in where foot should go with low arrangement of fall flowers. Your idea of memories or quotes is good, make that a game where you pass out rough paper in rawhide or beige color & ask them to write something for bride & groom would need pens or pencils to write with but advice, favorite memory about couple or "how to get through the net 25 yrs" would be fun & interesting memory of the party. Only thought is be sure things are pretty secure in case of wind, would heat be a problem, might consider a tarp or 2 to shade some areas if you have trees or house you can anchor them on. Home Depot has brown ones that are nice & last quite well. Also have beige colored 6 ft wide shade cloth that can be anchored with long high wires to higher trees or close to roof so have some shade. It's sold in rolls 100 ft long or shorter 6 ft by 20 ft long. smaller rolls are $29. I think, I shade parts of my yard & makes a big difference. Sounds like a fun party!