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Thanks for the info Sid! I have zones set up already as part of some electrical upgrades that were performed and this allows me to run my gasoline generator (Honda EU3000, great little generator by the way) and power the house when the electric company misbehaves. I considered a Natural gas generator but for the cost, I would prefer to start going solar and will have my little generator in cause of a super emergency. My roof does not have shading but I do love the Sunflower and tracking solar although the cost versus value is debatable for my situation. Really I am just doing Grid tied because I can't afford to go off grid at once. Most of the grid tied credits are almost a wash in my area. Your statement is exactly how grid tied works in my area. I am actually on the waiting list for a Powerwall. It is both a backup battery and can function as a huge UPS for power fluctuations. I have noticed more and more power fluctuations in the last three months. All my major appliances and the electronics are attached to Modified or Pure Sine Wave UPS. They beep randomly when they kick in due to unstable power. For battery backup, I was actually looking at the salt water based batteries from someone like Aquion. Safety and lack of management like AGMs was my main motivation. The batteries will be in a storage space in the home. They are still quite expensive so I hope over time, they come down in price. The charge controller and inverter will be my biggest expense. Still have to make a decision whether I want to roof mount the solar or go with a tracking solar pole mount. Looking at the logic of this approach in my region. Also need to read the rules for my county about tracking solar. I know there was some hoopla a while ago about wind turbines. Thanks for all your feedback so far.

Thank you all for the valuable help! Here are some more photos of the kitchen so you can see what I am working with. We are not in need of more home square footage now, but this home (with exactly what we want in our 'forever home') came available in our neighborhood - which we love - so we are probable going to place an offer this week. We are only considering moving now vs later because this home is not selling, has been reduced in price and we can likely get a deal and keep the mortgage super close to where ours is now. If we don't get a deal and won't come out ahead by at least 10K even after the kitchen renovation, we aren't moving forward with the purchase. That being said, I'm already planning and dreaming for this awesome space. I think the reason the home hasn't sold is the kitchen is half the size of what we have now and 1/3 the size of similar homes in our area that have similar square footage. Our plan is to take some of our home equity and do the kitchen exactly how we want it before moving in. I know some said to live with this for a year, but this is not functional for us. We had our contractor price 3 different options: (1) remove the cabinet and counter that's attached to the stove and build a continuous counter all along the wall all the way through the breakfast nook. (2) everything in 1 and moving the fridge closer to the breakfast nook for a larger pantry space (3) everything in 1 and 2 and removing the existing island and columns and making one over-sized eat-in island adding tons of storage. (I verified with contractor that the columns can be removed as they are not load bearing.) The estimate he came back with was super reasonable - hence we feel comfortable to make an offer. I based my tentative design on the layout of new-er homes in the area, so I know I'm not going rogue as far as functionality goes. I was just thinking with the added storage in all the new cabinetry, it actually may be more cost-effective to keep a small wine/coffee bar there vs expand the pantry. This will not be in the 'work' area of the kitchen as the stove, sink and fridge will be further toward the breakfast area. I would love any and all thoughts on my tentative plan! I really appreciate the feedback.

We have one and use it ALL the time. I don’t use the water though - it runs too slow for me. Last summer, though, we were having problems with the ice flapper - yes, that’s it’s real name. Apparently it wasn’t closing completely every time we got ice and was letting warm air leak up into the freezer. That caused some ice melting/fusing of cubes. So I finally called the repair guy and he got me a new flapper. Total charges about $110. (And then my electric bill went down cause my freezer had been running excessively! I should have noticed that, but I just didn’t. Duh.) My refrigerator is about 7 years old and it’s a Frigidaire.