Help- are these open web joists or trusses?
10 months ago
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- 10 months agolast modified: 10 months ago
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Help with Ceiling joists layout
Comments (4)Well I'm thinking of using light steel rafters, to reduce the weight. I was thinking light steel beams for the rafters, joists, purlins and collar ties. But quite frankly I'm not sure what's best. We live in typhoon country, so I'm not sure if light weight is the way to go? I will be getting these to an engineer to go over and approve, but I want to get the layout done so I can finish laying out the rest of the ceiling and roof space, windows, stair locations etc. So as far as a concept design is concerned what would be the best way to lay the beams out for that open space is what I'm after. Also I guess any suggestions, advice, or OMG don't do that help as well :)...See Moreexposing roof trusses to open up ceiling?
Comments (30)I figure after demo part I’d just need to do the insulation between rafters.. then cover with drywall, plaster, paint.. ? Have you been to the attic? Got any wiring up there? Any ductwork? Any plumbing vents? What is your plan to vent the roof? How are you going to insulate? What R value will you have? How do you plan to brace the trusses? What about climate control--HVAC? You will be adding a lot of cubic feet of new space that, in all likelihood, your HVAC system isn't designed to handle. Not only additional cubic feet but also the problem of stratification. How & to what do you plan to fasten the new drywall? You can't fasten drywall into the side of the truss; you will have to install some nailers/ ledgers to fasten drywall to. Trusses are typically constructed of 2 x 4's. Of particular note, the top chord is a 2x4, meaning there will be 3.5" between the roof deck and the bottom of that chord. Which will be buried in insulation. So, you need to realize that you will not see that top chord from the room below. What is you plan to deal with/ cover the gaps in the drywall caused by the trusses themselves? IOW's, what you want to do is a good deal more complicated and labor intensive than what I *think* you are thinking it will be....See More28' span open web floor truss 24". Spongey or not?
Comments (6)The install "sounds" light enough (as in about as heavy as a decent carpet). Just for giggles, please cross reference the LVT installation requirements regarding ELECTRIC in-floor radiant heat. With your description, I'm assuming this is NOT hydronic heating tubes but the less expensive and more limiting electric heating wires/mats. The flooring manufacturer is the one who specifies use with electric in-floor heating systems. Vinyl doesn't like heat - at all. Which means it is a very special vinyl product that will allow for this style of heating. You might want to get your application approved in writing by the flooring manufacturer before continuing. You are in the design phase so this is the PERFECT time to get this in writing. There are MANY vinyl products that require the heating "elements" (either wires or water tubes) to be "ENCASED". That means "in cement" or "in the subfloor" (as in heating tubes laid in or under the plywood subfloor. This type of assembly adds HUGE amounts of weight/stress onto a a build. When you add weight, you NARROW the gap between joists. I HIGHLY recommend you ask a few more questions about HOW this is going to work and if it is allowed by the LVT manufacturer....See MoreStay with floor joists or change to floor truss for HVAC
Comments (9)https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.socomp.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/FloorSpan.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjK9Jjbivj2AhUmhIkEHYyYCqoQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0km3oG3sfPxlyjMfEgD73O can give you some ideas about duct sizes that fit in wood floor trusses. You're going to have some large spans and interesting engineering feat to span all that open area. I assume you'll need more than one HVAC unit in the second floor. Your stairs will get longer with wood trusses. I'd look at multiple ceiling heights in the first floor....See MoreRelated Professionals
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