As arthurm says, don't worry too much about roots out of the pot. When you do repot, if you can, you can tuck them back into the new pot. If not, don't worry about it. It is advisable to wait for a suitable time to repot your particular plant as repotting at the wrong time can make the plant sulk for a long, long time. The tips of the roots should be green, which is an indication that they're active. As arthurm says, in the spring growing conditions are better.

If you know where you want them and have a water source near by where you can attach a water timer to water the roses during your absence, plant them now. As long as the proper care is taken when planting potted roses, they can be planted all summer long. They just need plenty of water until they get established. I have a pot ghetto consisting of last year's rooted cuttings. They often send out roots into the ground they're setting on. It's not a problem until you pick them up and the roots break off. Even then the bush will survive with no effect on its growth. To transplant a potted rose without having transplant stress follow these instructions; Planting a potted rose When planting a potted rose bush, care must be taken so soil doesnt fall from the roots or tiny feeder roots will be lost causing the plant to be stressed. I overcome this problem by doing the following. First prepare the planting hole. Dig it twice as wide and deep as the pot. In the bottom portion of the hole mix horse manure or an organic fertilizer with the soil. With a sharp razor knife cut the bottom from the pot and leave it in place. Then cut down the two opposite sides of the pot about two inches. Using masking tape, rubber bands, or string secure the two cuts then continue cutting the sides to a point halfway down. Secure these the same as the top cuts were secured. Holding the bottom, place the pot into the hole. If the bush is a grafted plant, position it so the bud union (swollen knob/graft point from where the canes grow) will be 4-6 inches below the soil surface in cold winter growing zones. If the bush is on itÂs own roots, position it so itÂs about an inch deeper than in the pot. (I'll often plant an own root bush deep enough so the point where the canes branch are buried an inch or so.) Slide the bottom from the pot. Pull soil into the hole until it come to the lower tape/rubber band/string. Cut the tape/rubber band/string on both sides of the pot and continue filling the hole to just under the top tape/rubber band/string. Cut the top tape/rubber band/string and fill the hole so just the tops of the two pot sides are above the soil. Pull them straight up and complete filling the hole. Do not tamp the soil. Settle it with a hose set to just a trickle so all the water stays on the soil around the bush. after the soil settles, there should be a depression around the bush. Add more soil until most of the depression is filled. Until the bush is growing well, water daily soaking the area well. Planted this way, the bush will not know itÂs been transplanted and should show no signs of stress. When watering, make sure you apply enough so it gets to the roots. A light sprinkling only wets the surface. This can cause the feeder roots to grow towards the surface. In dry spells the bush will wilt. Watering deep eliminates this problem and causes the roots to grow deep enabling them to better withstand periods of no or little rainfall. A five gallon bucket with a 16D nail hole in the bottom side and filled with water, then placed next to the bush will supply the needed water with no runoff. All the water will soak into the soil at the base of the bush. In sandy soil do this daily until the bush is growing well. In clay soil, do this when the leaves show signs of slight water distress but at least every other day until itÂs growing well.

I don't think I can get agricultural fertilizer around here. The best I could find were some fertilizers intended for flowering plants that supposedly contain extra phosphorus. They're not even intended specifically for hydroponics. I bought two brands of fertilizer. One is a liquid that says only that it is "high in" P205, no specific NPK ratio given. Can P205 be taken up by plants in a hydroponic system? The other says its NPK ratio is 15-30-20. It comes as granular crystals that you're supposed to dissolve in the water, 1 gram to 1 litre of water. It doesn't say exactly what form the minerals come in. I guess I'll just give it a shot and see what happens.

Hey ZZ, Would definitely advise against planting them "in" their peat pots; Remove the pot before transplanting in all cases, if that's unclear. A simple method to transplant from peat pots uses a box cutter knife or a razor blade to first cut off all exposed/out-growing roots, then slice open pot top to bottom on two sides and remove with care and an intact rootball in mind. Attempting to remove a peat pot from a seedling with protruding roots without cutting these roots flush with the outside of the pot first is too traumatic for the plant IMHO. Have given up on peat pots years ago for this reason and others. Transplant into 4" pots to take you another 2-3 weeks before you need to do something else with them. Cheers.