> what is this about the Drake II flapper? The standard flapper looks like this: That hole on the side allows it to fill with water and fall closed fairly quickly. But you can get a flapper designed for Toto's (now discontinued) low-end "Power Gravity" commodes (rather than "G-max", etc.) that is interchangable, but doesn't have the hole on the side (and sometimes a hole gap reducer on the bottom) which makes the flapper stay open longer before falling shut: These pictures are actually not of the Toto-branded flappers but rather of generic Korky replacements, but from what I read, they actually make the part for Toto, and the ones they sell under their own brand, in this case # 2022BP, are identical except for packaging, and even have "Toto" embossed on them, but are less expensive. You can also get this Korky 3060BP adjustable flapper which Home Depot sells in their stores, which lets you rotate the sleeve that opens or closes holes on its side: > I will be installing the Maris (has the same flushing system as the Drake II). Are you sure? A quick look online shows a more elaborate dual-flush setup > Your flap solution is an awfully expensive upgrade. You can get a replacement flapper for $10. > Questions: > Where did you get your information about the flap? From a plumber who has worked on these > How would I find out what kind of flap I have on the Maris? Toto's website has parts diagrams for all their current products. They show two versions of the Maris, one with a conventional tank and one with a tank that's hidden behind the wall between the studs. Both of them are dual-flush units, which I have no experience with, but these don't seem to use conventional flappers but rather a more elaborate flush valve assembly, either THU356 (regular tank) or THU322href> (in-wall tank). Note: I have not actually used this exact product on my Drake II; rather I bought the adjustable flapper to replace a solid flapper from a Gerber Viper 1.28gpf that I thought could use more water per flush, then moved the old Gerber flapper to the Toto, which made it flush using a bit more water, though I should note that it does a fine job even with 1.28gpf and I may switch back. I'm just paranoid about overflowing toilets when there's expensive new carpeting right outside the bathroom.

Well, the working man plumbing store doesn't carry Toto, so of course they will steer you away. We bought the Toto Soiree about 2 years ago, the 1.6 model. We haven't had a single clog since it was installed, and that is totally amazing. I cannot see how a skirted model could possibly be "more prone to clogs," as the skirting is simply decorative and the innards are just like any other toilet - but better in Totos. We're now adding on to the house and will buy the Eco Soiree (1.28) for the master and the Eco Drake (non-skirted 1.28) for the guest bath. Do be aware that the Soiree is ADA height, which actually might be a good thing for your boys. The double cyclone flush and sanagloss are really good on the Soiree. If you want a forum just about toilets (strong bias toward Toto) try the Terry Love forum. And good luck finding a good price on the Soiree, we bought a floor model which saved us a lot.

Go buy a manual toilet auger. It is basically a 3 foot snake with a crank handle and sleeve over it so you don't scratch the bowl. Shove it down the bowl and crank on it as you push it in. If you're right about the Q-tips, I'd bet the auger has a good chance of getting through and potentially pulling some back into the bowl so you can remove them.

The only way you are going to find out if the vent pipe is plugeed is go up on the roof and look. To save yourself a trip take a plumbers snake with you to run down it to see if you have something clogging it. You should not have any water in it at all. It should be empty to the bottom.