Not sure if you're placing at sink or tub, but I can tell you it doesn't work as a tub filler. Previous owner did that in our house and it takes FOREVER to fill the tub. When we get a new tub, we'll get a roman faucet set with separate spray (because it's great to have a spray in the tub). For a sink, I'd take lazypup's advice. I think there are plenty of lav faucets with high arcs/reaches....

Marti8a, >Wow, beautiful view! Thanks! That's what sold me on the house. the house was originally a small two room fishing shack that got added on to... it's not layed out well inside but I'll put up with it for the view. >>Is the house on a pier & beam foundation? If so, how high is the crawl space under it? It doesn't look like much, but if the subfloor is plywood, you can do all your >>plumbing from inside the house anyway. The back of the house is on cement (so, kitchen and bathroom) and no crawl and the front of the house has a very small crawl space. Any one going in there would have to be very very slender! And not claustrophobic! >>I hate to say this without knowing more, but it really, really sounds like that bathroom needs to be gutted. Ceramic tile doesn't fall off the wall without a reason, usually moisture behind it, or if the house has shifted >>and the walls moved a bit. What I should have mentioned is those delightful pink tiles are plastic not ceramic. I just think they have fallen off due to age and neglect. >>If you took out the tub and put in a shower, you could have a decent sized closet at the end. But if you really like having a bathtub, I'd just move the tub down to the end of the wall. The drain probably goes right over to >>that toilet drain, somewhat like this. I did give the idea of taking the tub out and just having a nice shower but right now am leaning away from that. But a larger closet is certainly tempting. There is very little closet /storage space in this house. >Is that just debris under the sink or is there any rot under there? > it's what's left of the old insulation. I just had to have a bunch of the pipes going to the well pump replaced... I still have to get rid of the rest of the insulation and clean the area up. Thank goodness for a nice neighbor who came over and did the majority of that work. He was a blessing! It's so nice to have running water again! >>I bet the sink used to be in the place where the two pipes are coming out of the floor, and someone decided to move it over to the counter. It looks like a wall sink >>that doesn't really fit on the counter. I bet you're right. I don't have my measurements with me right now but that is a very narrow counter. >Is your well pump in the cabinet behind the tub? Yes. I wish there was a better place to put it. >Are you going to be doing this work all by yourself or >will you have any help? I'll be having to hire help. I'm not knowledgeable about most of this work so it'll be much better if I hire a lot of it to be done. Thanks for your help. Susan

I opened all the links. 1st, I would get well known faucets and not something I've never heard of. If they fail you want excellent warranties. I noticed that these faucets have a flat top. I have one lovely faucet with a flat top and it is always getting spots on it. A rounded spout will shed the water better between hand washing. I have to always keep a microfiber towel at the faucet and clean it up after each wash. My other traditional faucet from the same company is not like this with water spotting. Both are Chrome. 2nd, if it was me, I would stick to chrome, cheaper and more durable in the long run I believe. When I finish this text I am going to link to a sight I used before, because it has a lot of info on bathroom layouts, and faucets. Look around the site for help. I have no interest in this link other than it helped me when I was choosing faucets and planning my layout. 3rd, I know nothing of that toilet but it looks interesting with that flushing system. Keep us posted on that. 4th I put in my own warming floors and had DH help with the pour of self leveling compound (SLC) to imbed the wires. I did not use the matts because of expense. I just saw at Lowes that they now have a NEW Ditra uncoupling membrane that allows the insertion of the warming wires within the Ditra waffles. This, I believe would be great, as one wouldn't need SLC. You'd install the Ditra and then the wires within the Ditra, then tile. At least that is what I think is done. Ditra is a very respected uncoupling membrane. If you have a wood subfloor you will need an uncoupling membrane of some sort. If you go to the John Bridge Tile forum, you can ask all sorts of questions there. They are VERY knowledgeable like Mongo, Bill, and Stonetech are over here. I haven't seen Stonetech so much lately. He is over on John Bridge (but goes by a different name), as is Bill. You have to know all this stuff before you buy anything else :) There is more to learn and it is fun. Just don't go too fast or you will have over bought and over spent. There is a balance to be made with information and purchases. Faucet infromation, page one of two, see link at bottom of the page.

Place I'm staying during my remodel has polished brass. I notice it every time I walk in. And not in a good way. Even though it may be trendy now (this stuff went in a long time ago), it's still not common and stands out. I guess I don't want my hardware to stand out that much. The finish is also deteriorating. Ick. My alternative to chrome, which is just too bright for me, is polished nickel. It has a little color to it and is (to me) classic. And Cal Faucets has a PVD polished nickel which has a lifetime guarantee. As I understand it, polished nickel is fairly easy to match. All the faucets are coming from Cal Faucets but the bath drain hardware will come from Kohler. I'm comfortable that any difference won't bug me (I'm somewhere in the middle of pickiness on this: more than some, less than others.) I'm using oil rubbed bronze for my door hardware but polished nickel for all my plumbing hardware.