There is no need to eliminate the trim or measure the existing framing; you just need to add up the dimensions (3.75" trim + 30" door + 3.75" trim) - 60" room width = 22.5" If you choose a lav. and vanity (or a pedestal lav.) that is no deeper than 22.5" you are done. There are countless ways to meet that requirement. The pedestal lav. I drew is only 20" deep and the vanity top with the underhung lav. is exactly 22.5" deep but I set the wall back 4" to allow a 32" door and avoid a tight fit between the counter top and the trim. However, if a family member becomes wheelchair bound in the future it is highly likely that they would use a motorized chair which can go virtually anywhere able-bodied people can go except stairs and possibly showers. And ramps can be much steeper. Toilet transfer must still be thought out carefully. I have a client who has started using a motorized wheelchair since out first project. I am now modifying his residence for him. His mobility is astounding and I have to run to keep up with him which seems to amuse him.

I have absolutely no issues with using the proclassic primer and didn't need to practice with it at all. I guess I just don't get that. I also have used many a brush, but like the nylon for this application. I don't have brush strokes...but I don't paint as much as a pro so perhaps it's use and use and use :) I think that people are reading the information in my clipping incorrectly. The COLOR code I put in there is for a color called Woodsey Brown which is an exterior color (you typically get more deep tones in exterior colors) but the PAINT is NOT and exterior paint. Just the color! The proclassic primer adhears to ANY surface, without sanding. I love the stuff because I've used it on some very glossy surfaces and it's held like magic! I do wash surfaces and make sure they're free of dust and dirt, but I rarely sand anymore. My professional painter was very skeptical but is now sold on the quality of these two products together. The primer is a gem, and the quality of the top coat is wonderful as well. I like a high quality finish and a strong finish as well...and together these two will give you that in any combination of colors ;)

Thanks everyone! All of you who said the spacing between the DW and sink is too close, you are right. :-) I stood in front of where I positioned the sink, took out my tape measure, and mimed opening the DW door. I think what happened is I had more space in an earlier iteration but with a blind cabinet in the corner (like today's kitchen has). Then when I put in the corner cabinet/susan instead, I found I had some extra inches on that wall. I must have shifted the DW over next to the corner cabinet thinking 'yay, a wider drawer by the range', and forgot about actually being a person standing there. Hi taximom_co, I haven't ruled out hiring a kitchen designer yet. I believe they add value if you get the right one that meshes with one's style. I've had a hard time finding a real design-skilled KD, who takes the time to understand how I would operate in the space. I've had a few bad encounters over the last year in talking with people from 'design/build' firms, even with the firms that were recommended by friends. Given the beautiful kitchens that I've seen posted on this forum, I know there is talent here and I wanted a "gut check" that my ideas weren't completely off base. I would swear that two of the guys I talked to never cooked a meal in their lives. I had one guy from a 'design/build' firm actually arguing with me over not putting the microwave over the range. (I mean, if he's going to argue with me before I give him any money, and so he's spending time arguing on his dime vs mine, I could only imagine what it would've been like working with him under contract.) cheri127 yes, I love a large sink. In fact, the layout ought to show a single large sink, but either the software didn't have that one or I chose the wrong one. I'll attempt a layout with a corner sink over the weekend and post it to see what you think. Hi buehl, thanks for your comments about the fridge placement--it's is precisely for that "easy access for snackers/don't interfere with the workers" that I'm hoping to achieve. It's good to hear someone has it working in real life. :-)

I think you are trading one wonky layout for another, to be honest. You have built a rang into a corner with no space on one side and not a lot on the other, your best prep space is across the way where dirty dishes are also likely to get stacked, the bay is awkward now (including teh gao bewteen the frisge and bay), a doorway separates the kitchen and the now only eating area and the washer and dryer are out in the hall -- none of these are good in my book. You still have a lot of things to move with your plan, and I wouldn't be surprised if it would cost you as much as bmore's plans. With bmore's I think you would increase the value of your home. With your plan, I think the best you could hope for would be to stay even with where you are. If I were a buyer, I'd be less likely to buy your new plan that the house with the current layout at the same price. If you are on pier and beam, it is much easier to move things than it would be for me on slab. On top of that, look again at bmore's first option. It takes advantage of water supply and drains near their current locations. I think you'd be moving less than in your plan. I'm not crazy about the doorway bewteen the kitchen and DR, but you could put a couple of chairs or stools at the baking height counter or the island and not be carrying food across the doorway for every meal. A hybrid scenario -- keep the WD in that room but put them against the wall on the right. If you stack them, you still have room for a small laundry sink, hanging and folding spaces -- or a desk as you drew -- something. Move the doorway on the bath to the hall between the two bedrooms as suggested and then modify the kitchen as bmore's first option shows. Even less moving, but keeps the improved function of the space.