Kind of hydroponics: not quite sure what you mean, I'm growing lemon basil plants with clay pellets in a basket with a nutrient solution below Nutrient strength? Solution changed once a week Check level of nutrients: is this the pH? Grown outdoors Sorry, this isn't a very detailed project. Just a simple growing project. I have four plants growing side-by-side and all but one are doing great. The last one (the one not doing well) has mycorrhizal fungi added to the nutrient solution and is the one with the very droopy leaves. The drooping is continuous but I have noticed that the bottom leaves are more droopy than the top leaves

Hello Everyone, Ok. I understand that some people are skeptics and that is very welcome, certainly it is very good to ask questions and doubt things we don't know very well. :o) First of all, I would like to explain ion exchange resins a little bit better. The above mentioned resins are made of cross-linked polystyrene a polymer insoluble in water which is used in many products in the food industry. From coffee cups to food trays, this polymers don't dissolve and they don't enter your body. The Resins are then functionalized to add acidic groups to the polysterene. The products still don't actually dissolve within the solution, they just interact with it in the same way that surface acid and basic sites found in clays interact with water to stabilize pH in soil. So you are not "adding chemicals" to your nutrient solutions, you are just adding a source of "active surface sites" which are able to stabilize pH. Nothing else, nothing more. Also, it would be interesting to point here that ion exchange resins are used WIDELY in water, foor and pharmaceutical processing. They are used to eliminate hardness in softners, to take out heavy metals in polluted water, to purify pharmaceutical products, etc. Ion exchange resins are quite harmless and - as I said before - they merely provide reactive sites in solution without the actual contribution of any additional "chemicals" to it. Regarding the actual pH buffering capabilities of the resin, the resin will not lend itself to any pH adjustment level you want. Each resin does have a fixed pH level in which it will work. These resins will maintain pH between 5.8-6.2 (small variations may happen due to differences in fabrication between batches). I hope that with this explanation you will better understand what they do and how they act and that they won't add anything "harmful" to your solutions. They are widely used in the food, water, medical and pharmaceutical industries so saying that they are "toxic" or "damaging to your customers" has no scientific basis. In fact, the water you drink when you buy bottled water has probably gone through at least some ion exchange resin columns to ensure adequate purification. I hope some of you decide to try this out and comment the benefits, certainly not only do these ion exchange resins provide you with a more "natural way" of balancing pH (since they prevent rapid pH changes that happen when you adjust with the addition of acids or bases imitating the slow-acting surface chemistry based buffering power in soils) but they also allow you to avoid the constant addition of acids or bases to maintain adequate pH levels. Thank you very much for all the follow ups ! :o) Daniel Here is a link that might be useful: Everything Hydroponics

Ah, hex you want this to be so wrong. Sorry but you can look up the "no nutritional value" on hydroponics it's well documented. An yes your right the plants don't care what the source of those elements are. But we're not talking about the plants but what "feeds on them". But lets talk about something else. You mentioned a perpetual motion machine. Well, yes that's what life is. it's in the very air we breathe. The plants breathe in bacteria that has the nitrogen cycle living inside it. The plant nitrogen (waste) cycle is part of that too. Even in an anaerobic system that still goes on. I have apple and pear trees that are ten years old that have been flowering, fruiting as well. With no intervention from me other than water if I notice. That means no fertilizer either. The bucket design captures rainfall so that wasn't often. Oh, that's right there's another difference. Capturing the rain water is taboo for your form of hydroponics. I mean with all the measurements and such. Haven't needed to take a reading ph or other wise in more than 20yrs. As for growing something..a tomato. Really. Is that the hill you standing on. I'm showing Cashews, Macadamia nuts,, coffee, 3 kinds of Bio-Fuel. Apples, pears, Plums, peaches all growing happily in the system. I bring pictures of everything. There even Strawberries flowering this year that grow anaerobically. Let's just off the top of my head there are Norfolk pines, Fiddle leaf figs, Sago palms, cactus, White and Yellow Birds of Paradise, Orchids, Pony Tail palms, Citrus. All growing quite happily. Those pictures are already on here. As for water consumption on average each tight 5gal container holds about three an a half gallons. That water last between 45 and 60 days with out rain. If I get a good rain once a month I don't have to water at all.

EC, PPM, pH meters Posted topics included in this FAQ are: Basics of EC PPM testing--is it necessary? Looking for a nutrient meter Basics of EC Posted by thedude27 (My Page) on Thu, Jan 12, 06 at 16:46 Hello, I'm new to hydroponics growing and have a basic question about mixing the nutrient solution. Currently I'm growing some sage in a homemade DWC system and was wondering if I'm mixing the nutrient solution correctly. When you are mixing to obtain say 1500ppm nutrient solution do you add the 1500ppm on top of the reading of your water without solution? So if I had water that was reading say 500ppm before adding anything would I then add solution to bring the reading to 2000ppm? Or could that provide your plant too much of a certain nutrient (obviously something is in there raising the count). Also at what point (well water) hardness would you consider using distilled/spring water? For me its not such a big deal since my grow (crop) is small for now, but it would be easier to just use tap water (or filtered tap water). Response: Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Fri, Jan 13, 06 at 17:40 The PPM in your tap water is the same whether you have a tablespoon or a gallon. The PPM of the solution from the nutrient concentrate will depend on the volume of water you mix with it. Need to keep in mind that PPM is always a calculated value not like EC (electrical conductivity) which is directly measured. This is why many prefer using an EC meter for measuring nutrient concentration versus a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter, which is an EC meter with a calculation algorithm built in. Unless otherwise stated on the label, the calculated PPM of the solution will assume mixing pure water with the concentrate. But to answer your question the final PPM will be additive and 2000 PPM would be correct. Posted by: thedude27 (My Page) on Sat, Jan 14, 06 at 23:29 Thanks a bunch Hank, that helped a lot :) I guess I should have gotten the EC meter instead of the PPM but I got a really good deal on a Newport DSPH-3 (dissolved solids/PH) that I couldn't pass up. Although I'd imagine I could just get the conversion formula from the company and reverse the calculation (although I suppose I'd need accurate temperature readings too). Thanks again PPM testing--is it necessary? Posted by Luckyleaf 7 TN (My Page) on Sun, Oct 10, 04 at 23:22 Is it necessary to use PPM testing if I will be growing some tomatoes in a bubbler? Also, if you say it is, what should the ranges be for the nutes in the veg stage and the fruit stage? Thanks! Response: Posted by: AdrianaG AL z7 (My Page) on Thu, Oct 14, 04 at 19:09 Only if you want healthy plants...and the meter you want is an EC meter, not a ppm meter. Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 16, 04 at 2:53 Checking your pH and salts concentration of your nutrients is analogous to checking the fluids in your car. You can get away with not doing it but it is not recommended. It's extra work and expense but gives you important information on the condition of your nutrients. Product.....pH..............cF...........ppm Tomato....6.0 - 6.5...20 - 50......1400 - 3500 Posted by: Luckyleaf 7 TN (My Page) on Sat, Oct 16, 04 at 11:17 How do I get the PPM up to 1400-3500? Just add 2x the recommended dose of the nutes for the plants? The PPM of my water is ~50, so thats a far way to go Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Sun, Oct 17, 04 at 9:58 It will make a difference how large your reservoir is to get nutrients up to correct ppm. Start keeping a log and how much and when to add and change nutrients will become much clearer to you. PPM and Ph are closely related so you should test and record Ph as well. Posted by: Luckyleaf 7 TN (My Page) on Sun, Oct 17, 04 at 15:49 Well I'm doing 5 gal bubblers, and I wont have a reservoir. It is usually like a tsp or something per gallon for each nute, but since tomatoes have different needs I would have to do something like a tbsp per gal? ...in general I would have to use more than the recommended dose Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Mon, Oct 18, 04 at 8:49 All nutrients are different; all nutrients have different mineral concentrations. 1. Go buy an EC meter 2. add nutrients 3. Measure nutrient concentration Posted by: Hydro4me z5 IN (My Page) on Tue, Oct 19, 04 at 11:37 Hey there Adriana, I have the (brand name) Nutrient Meter, but it reads, "442", "KCL", and "uS" (which I believe is micro siemens). I have heard that the 442 is good for testing pond water with fish and plants, and KCL is potassium chloride. I have no clue which one to use for testing my Millennium nutrients. I try to keep the blinking LED's in the middle, but peppers or tomatoes require higher levels. Any advice from other hydro gardeners? Thanks, Jason Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Wed, Oct 20, 04 at 21:25 Most published stuff on hydro is given in ppm. I have on that has been working fine for 5 yrs. RE: meters ppm (ec) and ph Posted by: NLG1 7b-8a (My Page) on Wed, Apr 27, 05 at 18:11 You can find meters for around $30.00. They work, but for how long is the real question. What you want out of a meter. 1: waterproof 2: warranty 3: replaceable probe 4: pH range 1-14 +/- .1 5: ppm range 1-1999 Posted by: willard3 (My Page) on Thu, Apr 28, 05 at 9:20 A good cheap meter is an oxymoron. You should get a good meter, no matter what it costs. Hydro goes sooooo much better if you know accurately and repeatable the Ph and EC of nutrient solution. $50/meter is what I paid and it's worth every penny. Posted by: HydroBotany Indoors (My Page) on Fri, Oct 28, 05 at 18:40 (HydroBotany suggests a double junction (DJ) product). That is the most important thing with hydroponics. A DJ meter handles the environment the best and last the longest. artisan also has a good meter and it can be used continuously if you want it to RE: meters ppm(ec) and ph Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Fri, Oct 28, 05 at 21:49 I tend to be biased toward (another product). Very reliable. No problems so far. RE: Looking for a nutrient meter Posted by marshallwilson z4 CO (My Page) on Sun, Sep 25, 05 at 9:27 New to hydroponics. Basic ebb and flow system. Using 2 part dry nutrients (from CK). Currently outside, will be moving inside under lights soon. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to monitor my nutrient level. Hoping for suggestions on meters. As an alternative; can I just change out the entire solution every 2 weeks (suggestion from the local hydro shop)? I do get a fair amount of evaporation during the 2 week cycle. Should I just top off the nut solution with plain water? Thanks Marshall Response: Posted by: propman Z10 CA (My Page) on Sun, Sep 25, 05 at 11:47 I just got a ppm meter for about $35. Before that I just used the recommended dose on the bottle per gallon of water. What I found when I tested the water was way too stong because my water has 150 ppm before I added nutrients. The meter is a good idea. Here is a link that might be useful: pictures of my lettuce Posted by: hank_mili Z11 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 22, 05 at 1:03 Hope you have a pH meter or strips. One can calculate ppm but you can only measure pH. RE: Looking for a nutrient meter Posted by: HydroBotany Indoors (My Page) on Fri, Oct 28, 05 at 18:03 Just top it off with plain water.