Kohler Whitehaven Installation Question
Hi Everyone!
I’m remodeling my kitchen and planned for a 33” Kohler Whitehaven to fit my standard 36” cabinet. This was per my GC’s instructions that the sink must be 33” or less for that size cabinet.
They just put the cabinet and sink together, and I really dislike how it looks. They had to put a trim piece around the sink because the cabinet opening was too large (see pics).
My solution to this issue is to trade in the 33” Whitehaven for a 36”. Per the official Kohler installation instructions, as well as everyhing I’ve found online, the 36” Whitehaven is meant to be installed in a 36” cabinet. My GC is pushing back on this; his reasoning is that the vertical support that is illustrated in the installation guide will not be enough to support the sink’s weight. He also says that we’ll need to add a filler between the sink and the cabinet next to it. He mentioned that these issues are popping up because we are using standard cabinets rather than custom cabinetry. However, what I’ve read online doesn’t seem to indicate that the 36” Whitehaven would be installed any differently in a standard versus custom 36” cabinet.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Comments (15)
Related Discussions
Apron Sink-Shaw or Kohler Whitehaven
Comments (29)I bought a rohl 30" apron sink online for around the same price as white haven. The crazing cracking issue is because of over tightening when installing. Talk to the plumber and make sure someone who has done a farm sink nstalled ion many times before should be the one to do it. Also all farm sinks have variations. For the tightest fit without gaps, your cabinet guys need the actual sink on hand to build the sink cabinet right. A couple of things I would have done differently - got a 36" sink as the 30" is awfully tight for baking sheets and cookie trays. The sink does not slope/ drain well. It is a minor annoyance that I have to chase the dredges around to get it into the drain hole. My DH who is the main user of the sink is not bothered with this. You definitely need a good quality pull down faucet. The waterstone PLP we have which swings around and has a good pull down sprayer is very useful. I would have really hated a bridge faucet here. I would definitely get the extra deep flange for the sink and the sink grid. Both are very useful....See MoreKohler Whitehaven Self-Trimming Apron Sink
Comments (10)6 11/16 apron minus 7/16 thickness of the rim that will sit on top of the cabinet equals 6 1/4 inches. 6 11/16 - 7/16 = 6 1/4 6'' faux drawer front + 3/8" reveal equals 6 3/8" Assuming all of the figures given are very accurate, then you should have 1/8" space between the bottom of the sink apron and the top of the doors. Too close for comfort. So...possible remedies would be to mount the doors just a little (1/4'') lower...but that will probably not look too good as the bottom won't line up with the rest of the cabs in the run. Better option--add a little height to the top of the all the cabinets in that run...whatever you need...1/4 to 3/4'' thick boards so the sink will sit a little higher and give you the clearance that you need. (effectively, what you're doing here is increasing the '3/8" reveal) Get moulding finished to match the cabs that can be applied to cover the boards that are raising the countertop. If you're at least average height, raising the countertop just a tad shouldn't make much of any difference comfort wise. (Probably lots less expensive solution vs having a cab custom made.)...See Morekohler whitehaven apron with merillat case cabinet
Comments (4)Standard cabinet faceframes give you 6 1/2" of depth from the top to the faceframe cross rail that divides the top drawer from the door below. A Whitehaven sink is 9 5/8" tall at the front, so this is not a workable option. Casey...See MoreKohler Whitehaven 36" or 33" and base cabinet size
Comments (22)The Whitehaven "apron" front of the sink goes over the frame of the cabinet instead of the cabinet needing to be cut to the exact size of the sink. This makes it easier to get a good looking fit. The "short apron" style is often used in remodels that are keeping the cabinets because the apron is shorter and goes over the frame left when the upper faux drawer front of the cabinet is removed. The sink has to be the size for the base or it will not adequately cover the frame.This is what I used in my remodel. Whitehaven short apron sink: This video shows how it is installed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLHJEXdb5wM The Hawthorn has a similar front, but does not come in a short apron style. The Whitehaven also has a divided bowl style, but it is not a 50/50 divide. A more traditional farmhouse sink like this Rohl fireclay sink has sides all around. The cabinet has to be more carefully cut to look good. It requires a farmhouse sink cabinet: Here is a humorous blog post about different farmhouse style sinks: http://victoriaelizabethbarnes.com/apron-front-farmhouse-sink-options-decided-against-fireclay/...See MoreRelated Professionals
Leicester Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Chandler Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Princeton Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Pico Rivera General Contractors · Augusta Furniture & Accessories · Short Hills Furniture & Accessories · The Crossings General Contractors · Citrus Heights General Contractors · Country Walk General Contractors · Keene General Contractors · River Forest General Contractors · Towson General Contractors · Waxahachie General Contractors · Centerville Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Liberty Township Cabinets & Cabinetry
last yearWe did the 33" whitehaven in a 33" cabinet using a Pete Sink Mount system that I heard about on this forum. my husband and I installed it ourselves and it was not difficult.
OliviaB thanked Lisa- last year
@HALLETT & Co. I'm doing 2 cm quartzite (Taj Mahal). I'm asking the fabricator to do a mitered eased edge. Is that what you mean by "built up edge"?
I'm aiming for a look similar to the picture below. To your point about "make sure you're happy with how that will transition at the face of the sink", will what I'm asking for translate to a style similar to the picture I shared?
Shoreline Kitchen · More Info - last year
@Joseph Corlett, LLC Thank you for the advice. Seeing as you install sinks professionally, would you be able to weigh in on another question I have: Is there any advantage to having the countertop edges on top of the sink versus cut to fit around the sink? I probably did not explain that well, but the pictures below are what I mean:
Countertop edges on top of sink:
Contemporary Mid Century Kitchen Remodel · More Info
Countertop cut to fit around sink face:
Laguna Beach Hillside · More Info 
PROlast yearHU:
Your second picture appears to be that of a 2 cm top with a mitered perimeter edge. They didn't want to miter at the sink cut out, so they didn't. The first picture is a 3cm through-body top.
Either is fine, except both are examples of a negative reveal which is where the top overhangs the sink. This creates an unsanitary and difficult to clean crud ledge in addition to leaving the bottom of the top exposed to chipping. A flush edge creates an elongated silicone joint that frays, becomes contaminated, unsanitary, and ugly.
Insist upon a slight positive reveal please:
This one's a little heavy, but I had to work with the existing cutout. You get the idea. Now you get a cleanable maintainence-free line between the bottom of the stone and the sink flange.
When selecting a caulk color, always bring the stone to the sink, never the sink to the stone.OliviaB thanked Joseph Corlett, LLC- last year
- last year
- PROlast year
- last year
- PROlast year
Joseph Corlett, LLC