Cut down uninstalled wood vs. grind down installed tile? Hands down the wood is easier! We put fiberglass columns up a wall that was partially tiled. We laid the tile to go under the column and shaved off part of the column so it laid flat on the tile as well as the wall above. Piece of cake, and looks nicer than having the cut edge of the tile against the column. Don't have any close-up photos, but hopefully this gives you an idea.

Update: The guy took up the toilet, removed and relaid some of the uneven floor tiles (still uneven, but now not directly under the toilet) and installed the new toilet I bought. He agreed to pay for the toilet ($350, not counting the seat, though one just like the one he broke was over $500), and said he would consider whether it was feasible to remove the deco tiles and a couple of rows above and below them, and put them back properly. The tile dealer offered to sell him the replacement tiles at her cost because she felt bad about recommending him. That was over a month ago, and I have not seen or heard from the jerk. I'm guessing he has no intention of reimbursing me for the broken toilet or rectifying the bad tile job. I don't think I want him back here, to be honest. One of the floor tiles came loose, and I had to pay someone else to replace it, doing the best they could with the uneven adjacent tiles. I had another tile contractor come in and price the removal and replacement of all of the tile from the deco row down to the tub. He said the tile was crooked, caulk line at the tub was way too wide, decos done badly, and all of this was prefaced by saying he doesn't like to criticize another contractor's work, so I'm thinking he was holding back a bit. I've already bought the replacement tiles (at cost) and I'm waiting for the second guy to get me on his schedule. The cost to correct the first guy's work as much as possible will exceed $1500 by the time we're done, and I'll still have uneven floor tiles and a slightly bellied back wall in the tub area. I've since learned that there are so many people looking for this guy that he took his name off his truck. He has also reportedly stiffed a local building supply company for a lot of money, and his licenses for remodeling and building are both lapsed for over a year. Live and learn. Maybe my loss on this project will save someone else from going through a similar experience. I live on the CT shoreline, if anyone is interested in the name of the idiot who did this, contact me and I'll give you his name.

No-Grout will not hold the trim

Hey there - I was going to suggest the schluter edging as well - we used it on a floor, and a friend has it in her kitchen and while I'm not like "WOW! Awesome edging!" I basically don't notice it. It comes in an awesome copper color that blends perfectly into slate... but that's probably not helpful to you! Also comes in brass-like and brushed stainless-like. We used a mix of tile behind the stove and beadboard everywhere else, so wood was already in the mix. That being said, we used .5" x 1" sticks to frame out the subway. I hated it at the time, but now, again, don't really notice it. May not be for everyone, but here's a pic so you can see what I'm talking about - we did buy the bullnose pieces for where the tiles are next to the painted (orange) wall - but needed a transition between the beadboard and tile - bullnose wouldn't have worked well and the tiles and beadboard are different thicknesses, so they didn't make a smooth transition on their own.