Hi Mario, I'm worried about one of my sego palms. I googled "sego palm not blooming" and saw the pic you posted with your palm that has new growth. Sans the new growth, that's what the center of my palm has looked like for a few months and it seems stagnant. How long did it take your palm to establish the new growth?

Cycads easily suffer root shock, sometimes it takes a year or more until new growth is seen and a full recovery is made. Cycad roots form and heal very slowly. Just keep the plant in a warm shady spot for a few months. Water about every 3 weeks. Be very patient. They are extremely resilient, just very s l o w.

Hi coco, I couldn't help but tell you that most my palms do not do well in a very peaty mix...I use a 5.1.1. mix that allows excellent drainage, holds it's structure for a very long time, and allows for the roots to my palms to flourish. It also allows me to fertilize without fear of salt build up and saves me a lot of aggrivation with discolored or yellowing leaves, and or burnt leaf tips.. I linked a thread for you from the conatiner forums that might shed some light on how soilless mixes work.. I am assuming your plant is in a container? Also, lava rock, stones, or anything else at the bottom of your container does not promote drainage, but just takes up room in the pot where your roots might have been able to grow to..It also pushes your perched water table higher into the pot. All soil mixes with very fine particles hold a PWT which in turn is the culprit to root rot if not careful..They also compact very quickly, suffocating the roots. It also causes nutrient defficiencies... If you can, use a wooden dowel to check your moisture in your pots, and you might be suprised to see that there is a lot more moisture into the root zone than you might think when you think your soil is dry with the finger method.. If it were me, I would transplant ASAP into a better soilless mix while it is early in the season.. Good luck Mike Here is a link that might be useful: soil discussion

If the frond is on the lower end of the trunk it is natural for them to turn yellow then eventually brown. This is how the plant conserves energy for making new fronds. If the yellowing is occuring toward the apical end where new growth appears you are probably have a lack of nutrients. Sagos are pretty heavy feeders and actually like quite a bit of nitrogen in their fertilizers. There is quit a few good sites that pop up on a google search that give detailed care and feeding instructions. If you are in zone 8 a sago should survive outdoors most of the year. It would probably be happier outdoors. I bring mine in once temps drop near freezing. Good luck!