Be careful on the CAD files. There are high end design software packages that are used by architects and the CAD files might be useable - but that depends on the software and version that your architect or draftsman uses. The on-line CAD files offered with house plans (at that time we were building around 2007) were not compatible with lower end house design software like Punch - but that may have changed in the last few years. Before you spend any big bucks, you can typically order a draft set of plans that are marked not for copy. If that is available, you might want to start with a set of these so that you can review them and play around with possible changes. I bought a draft set of plans and put them into Punch and I was then able to play around with windows & doors. Floor layouts are pretty easy to create in Punch but rooflines take a lot more work. Once you get serious about building - you can then purchase the plans for copy. If you are intending to use an architect, wait until you make a selection and then work out the details. It might save you money to purchase a CAD file but it might also be a waste of money. I made the mistake of purchasing both the Copy plans and the CAD file (before we selected the builder & architect) and the CAD was a complete waste. My architect used his own method for generating plans and another architect I interviewed said that he would rather start from scratch. Our process went something like this (but there are many variants that work): - Find a plan that we like on-line. - Purchase a draft set and then start to play around with the space. Make to-scale cutouts of furniture to make sure what you have (or want) will fit in. Make sure garages and closets are big enough. try to imagine living in the house to see if the space will meet your needs - Find/select a reputable builder. Work with them on the plans you have and work cost. In our case, the builder had a lot of recommendations on how to lower the cost of building our plans. Much of these changes were wall alignments and roof lines. - Get an architect to produce a set of plans necessary to complete financing and get building permits. In our case, the builder had an architect that he offered as a pre-contract service. - Secure financing. Sign the contract which included a final set of plans - Pray that everything works out.

Love your cabinets and what a deal. I love the re-store store! In our last house we had a tiny kitchen, but managed to modify a pantry to have pullouts plus a six inch space for broom closet along one side. I know a lot of people would say that's not enough space, but it was plenty for a broom, swiffer and a hand vac. You will love this space. If you order a cabinet, a face frame will narrow the space, though. You will likely also be limited on heights available. You could probably just make this cabinet with 3/4 panels if you want to go to the floor and order your doors separately. We used a 3/4 panel in this way and used angle brackets on the floor and ceiling (at the top ours was also attach to another wall cabinet, though.). The angle brackets on the floor were tiled over since we went down to the subfloor. The ones at top were hidden behind our frig. I think trimming it to the ceiling would look best and maybe find a way to bridge the top of your frig. It will link the two sides visually and give the frig a more built in space. Even if you just put a nice straight line valance with a plain bead at top like your cabs, stained to match, you would get that finished look. We had a cabinet bridging that space. Whatever you use, there may still be that little bit of space to slide a cookie sheet on top of the frig. That's what we did--we used every square inch! Now I'm planning our last dream house kitchen and I'm still wanting to use every last bit of space well. Hate those fillers unless they pull out :) Isn't it fun to find a use for the little spaces that others would just use filler of leave an empty space on the other end?!

It would be great for part of a greenhouse or a room divider (hung from the ceiling or beam). It would also make a good cover for a coldframe. Although it might be a bit heavy for that. You could also use it in the garden, create a way to stand it up by adding some triangle supports at the base, knock out several of the panes of glass and use it for a trellis. You could leave the paint as is, paint it a uniform/neutral color, or go for a bright eye popping color combination. Whatever you decide to do with it ... you would want to make sure to seal it well ... for outside so it lasts ... for inside to protect the old finish from flaking/peeling (which could possibly contain lead). Good luck ... hope you get it! Joyce

The way to get a gapless fit against a wall is to scribe the end/edge of the wood to the actual part of the wall against which the wood will sit. However, many times a small gap---when using dark stains--- virtually disappears when the stain is used on the ends of the trim. That can evem work on a scarf joint---the angled joint used when mating two pieces of trim to increase the length. Now to those steps---- 1. Sand---using no more than 150 grit paper. That is sufficient to get the wood smooth and still allow good stain penetration. 2. Stain---wipe the stain on with a rag---that allows you to better control the color. 3. Lightly sand(by hand) with 220 grit paper. That will smooth the nubs raised by the stain without removing stain. 4. Poly Finish or varnish. Varnish will be much easier to repair than a poly finish. 5. Install 6. Fill Nail Holes with color-matched wax crayon. The bowing is not really a big problem. Twisting is much more serious. I have installed narrow trim that bowed both ways without a problem---the nails hold it in place. Twisted trim usually will not lay flat regardless of how many nails.