How best to transition between different floor tyoes

last year

Have hard wood in the living room. Stairs go right up into the living room. They are not hardwood. What flooring would you use on the stairs. Been thinking of black luxury vinyl

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Comments (6)

Susie .
last year
Hardwood to match the floors would be my first choice. What are the stairs now?
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Cd
Original Author
last year
They had carpet. Removed it and stairs are not hardwood.
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They still make a 5/8" T&G plywood subfloor, Lowe's item #12250. You are a little confused about the minimums for a plywood substrate. The minimums are this for joisting 16" OC. If installing tile directly to plywood the minimums are the subfloor (bottom) layer to be 19/32" T&G subfloor rated plywood with a layer of 15/32" sq.edge plywood underlayment installed on top... equaling 1 1/8". This is for residential, light commercial settings state both layers to be a min. of 19/32" thick.... equaling 1 1/4" thick. If you are incorporating either CBU backerboard or Ditra membrane between the tile and plywood the minimums drop down to a "single" layer subfloor using a minimum of 19/32" T&G subfloor rated plywood. Those are the absolute minimums as far as plywood substrates go. I personally go thicker in both cases. Bottom line is 3/4" (23/32) T&G subfloor rated plywood is OK to use underneath CBU or Ditra. These minimums are straight from the Tile Council of North America 2007 Edition Handbook.
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Comments (1)
sorry...moving it over to the flooring forum.
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I see two options. The first is to have your tile person straighten out the edge of the tile. Fabricate a reducer that's 1/4" thick i.e. the difference between your wood and tile), finish to match the floor and cut it to length. Undercut the door stops to the height of the tile so the reducer will slide under. Fill the gap between the wood and tile with something that's the thickness of the wood. Apply a little construction adhesive to the bottom of the reducer and install it, weighting it down until the adhesive dries. This can be done by closing the door and sliding wedges under it. The second option would be to use a matching baby threshold that would lip over the tile and hide the uneven edge. Fit it, fill the void, undercut stops and secure with adhesive. Trim the door bottom if needed. The bottom of the baby threshold might have to be shaved off so it sits level. If it's made for a 1/2" floor and your difference is only 1/4" you'd have to shave off 1/4". The first solution yields the lowest stepover height but is more work. The second is easy but has a bigger hump at the doorway.
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Comments (18)
June, it's not verboten. There are other varibles. my entire state (that I've seen) uses wood for the curbs. If you're in a state that has a high water table, then you prob don't want to use your wood on a slab since it's going to absorb a lot of moisture. But for areas like mine, as long as you isolate the untreated wood from a cement slab to prevent moisture migration, and it's waterproofed, it's fine. (treated lumber will warp and twist.) Head over johnbridge. plenty of the moderators use the 2x's. mine is encased in tar and mortar, and there's a barrier under it and the seasoned slab. it's not going to expand and contract and it's not going to absorb moisture. bricks are porous too. both of them require the waterproofing membrane and barrier to work properly. but hey, foam boards or mortar bricks are fine ( more than one way to skin a cat. and build a curb) leslie, you can't just add a curb after it's already tiled. what's wrong w/the way it is? do something different w/the transition if you have to, but leave it as is.
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Cd
Original Author
last year
The stairs run down into a hallway and then more stairs to basement. So it would be expensive to do all that in hardwood.
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Cd
Original Author
last year
Thinking something like this
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HU-227031627
last year
Will black threads be difficult to see or is there adequate lighting?
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Susie .
last year
It would be expensive to do it all in hardwood. I think you could probably do it with paint. I assume the existing treads are some other type of wood? You could do vinyl, but you'd want to add matching nosing and any change in step height could cause safety issues. Also, if you have a special step at the bottom (e.g., rounded) it would complicate things. It seems like too much work for what you will get. As long as the treads are in decent shape, I'd just fill any nail holes with wood filler and paint with a good floor/porch paint (probably need to prime first). Anything really dark, whether it's paint or vinyl will show more dust/lint, etc. Think about a nice stair runner in the middle. It will help disguise the fact that the treads are different than the floors.
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How best to transition between different floor tyoes

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Susie .

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How best to transition between different floor tyoes

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