I wasn't criticizing the way you do it. I was just noting that I changed my method after reading what the NCHFP recommended. Before I read that, I'd never really given it much thought, except to notice that when I used our in-ground tornado shelter for autumn and winter storage of canned goods, I did have to remove the bands because they rusted if I didn't. Now I store them all inside the house itself (in many different places since the pantry can only hold so many) and remove the bands before packing them away in plastic storage boxes with lids to go into various closets or cabinets, under the beds, etc. If a jar goes bad (which really doesn't happen often), I won't even know it until I open up one of the storage totes anyway. I guess I'd notice if one in the pantry or in a kitchen cabinet went bad because I'm in and out of the pantry daily, but it is rare that they go bad anyhow. Mostly I just don't want for them to corrode or rust. Regarding the Ball Complete Book of Canning from 2006, I have it but haven't used it in years, other than to look up a recipe for someone. I tend to go with what is written on the NCHFP's website when it comes to practices and procedures because they have all the latest info based on government-funded research, and I like to stay current or at least know when changes occur. I don't think the NCHFP gets research money like it once did (budget cuts year after year, it seems) because they don't do updates very often at all any more. I generally only become aware of something changing if someone on the Harvest Forum happens to mention it. Otherwise, I'd likely never know when they change the rules of the game.

If you do need to seal--and I actually don't think you do--this is a 5-minute job that does not require your contractor to come back to do. It does not need any special skill - if you are able to wipe lightly in a circular motion, you can do it. In fact, if your counter is the type to need annual resealing, you will have to do this yourself eventually anyway. Buy the smallest bottle of sealer you can find at HD. It will still outlast you in this kitchen, as you just need a very small amount in order to seal. (Don't get one that says "enhancer", you just want "impregnator"). Follow the directions on the container. Seriously, 5 minutes or really 3. It'll take longer to clear your counters of your toaster etc than it will to seal. Having said all that, I am not sure you need to seal. There is such a thing as too much sealant, and/or sealant applied when it is not needed. When that occurs, your counters will show what is called "hazing" as the sealer sits on top and doesn't absorb, either because there is already sealant applied, or because the stone is so dense it doesn't need sealer (I haven't sealed my granite counter in years because it is a dense-type stone). One way to tell if you have hazing if you aren't sure is to drag lightly a dish or bowl on the counter, and if it leaves track marks, your sealer is not needed and hasn't absorbed. That could be what the "swirly marks" you mentioned are, but we can't tell without photos. The drag marks are in the sealer layer, not in the stone. You can remove it with acetone; there are threads about this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Sealants-16-oz-511-Impregnator-511-PT-SG-H/100672948

Acetone is great for removing oil stain on Quartzite. Soak the area a couple times over a day or so with acetone and wipe up after a couple minutes to help remove any sealer that was applied. Then soak a shop rag paper towel with acetone and apply it over the stain. You have to really soak it. Then cover it in plastic and tape it down. I like to use 3m painters tape. Not green or blue tape. Poke a few holes in it. Leave that sit for at least 24 hour. You can check it. If the rag is still damp recover it and let it sit till it is dry. Now here is the scary part for people. The stain will look horrible and much darker then the surrounding stone. That is because the acetone soaked into the stone. That is what you wanted it to do to break up the stain. Sit and wait. It will dry. Sometimes very quickly. A day or so. Sometime it will take a week or even longer. Let it dry till either the stone returns to its color or the stone returns to its color and the stain is still there. Sometimes it takes several attempts to remove this. Its sometimes is a long process. Then yes you have to seal the spot that was affected with the acetone. I work for a fabricator and I remove stains on all types of stones. All stones are able to be stained, even with the best sealers. I know we have used them all. Sealers are to only help staining from penetrating. Anything and everything will still penetrate stone. Even the unstainable quartz stone so they say. Stonetech oil stain remover is a great stain remover. Sometimes it will leave a haze after you attempt to remove a stain and it dry's out. KEY let it completely dry. It takes time and you have give it time to dry. If it has a haze. Remove it with a acetone rag like my notes above. Do not use acid base anything on any countertops as a cleaner or stain remover. It will etch your stone. Also no acetone on any quartz countertop. I have removed almost any stain on quartz with softscrub with bleach. The green bottle sold everywhere. Shake well. Apply the softscrub. Add a little bit of water and lightly scrub with a little force. If you go crazy and scrub hard for a bit you can mar or dull the finish on the stone. That would be bad because it very very hard to fix. Repeat if needed to remove the stain. Only use acetone on natural stones. Stains need patients. I have only ran into a few permanent stains in my 13 years in this industry. Sorry for the long post.

Marilyn…. i think uou are 100 percent correct and hit the nail on the head. i had quartzite installed 3 weeks ago. upon instsll, i asked the installer why the esges of the island and certain areas along the cointertop wall were darkened and looked saturated wet. he said they were wet from cutting and will dry in a few hours. well 3 weeks later they arent dried!! and they arent dry because the installer applied the sealer at install!! the water is trapped and cannot evapoorate. the fabricator said he has no idea why this happened, they are replacing it, but the only logical explanation is EXACTLY what you stated. Im glad they are replacing it, but for 3 weeks i have been wrackong my brain about what it could be, behan searching for alternarive stones for fear of using the same quartzite and having it happen again, only to realize, it eas the improper install that caused thsi mess!