too late to get a picture i guess? ... remember both mites and asters yellows cause the distortion of the cone and lake of petals to some extent... but only asters yellows will cause the petals to turn green.. and to have the mini flowers (stem and all) grown from the cone itself. I have seen plenty of plants that are completely infected with asters yellows and the plants still look healthy enough... it's just the blooms that give it away. In regards to the asters yellow virus living in the soil... from what i have read... no it doesn't... it needs to be living in a host plant. Plenty of common weeds can get asters yellows, so if you get true asters yellows in your garden.. it could be in the neighborhood just lurking around. If you are ripping out a plant, i would still wait a while to replant a potentially suitable plant so that all existing plant material (roots left in the ground) is dead. But why not just plant something else anyway?

This is where it has been reported in the U.S. (but not in roses): http://www.prevalentviruses.org/subject.cfm?id=56359 If it does spread to roses by aphids, it could be a real problem because it can also infect weeds and Gladiolus which could serve as reservoirs for the virus : http://www.actahort.org/books/234/234_44.htm Here is a link that might be useful: link to a weed and Gladiolus reference This post was edited by henry_kuska on Thu, Feb 5, 15 at 21:23

I have planted a variety of beans but I am almost positive that they have all been infected with mosaic virus. Leaves are mottled and many are distorted. I have attempted to treat for possible magnesium deficiency due to the low amount in my soil but hasn't worked so I am assuming mosaic. I think the royal burgundy bush beans from seeds of change were the original cause of the infection. They were they first and worst infected. I was hoping to let the beans grow and see what they can produce, all are growing and many have small beans starting so I think I'd rather not pull them. I ordered a few varieties of resistant beans. My question is: Can I plant the resistant ones next to the ones that are already infected? Or is this just asking for trouble? Pic On left northeastern pole bean leaf, not rust, doesn't come off and not helped by fungicides sulfur or neem, right both from the royal burgundy, pretty bad leaves Thanks!!

I received many kinds of seeds this year via trade. I started my first batch of seeds 3 weeks ago, several of the varieties of tomatoes came down with mosaic virus. I am not sure which variety caused it as it likely spread from 1 infected set of seeds to the others by being in the same tray. To others starting seeds received in trade, presoak them in 10% bleach before starting.