It's definitely a matter of personal taste, and what goes with the style of your kitchen. We did a combination: 1/8 eased edge along perimeter, with a 'small' ogee on both our island and a small bank of cabinets in a former kneewall between our kitchen and family room. We wanted the new cabinets in the kneewall to have a more "piece of furniture" look since it's a bit off on it's own, and put the same on the island to tie it all in. I love both- the eased edge is very clean and puts the focus on our beautiful granite, while the eased edge is just ever so slightly different and adds a little interest to our island and new serving area/cabinetry in the old kneewall. Not the greatest photos, but you can see them both together here (island is small ogee, perimeter w/dishwasher is 1/8 eased). Old kneewall that is now a serving area shows a bit in upper left here: Here is a closeup of our 'small' ogee (called small as our fabricator offered a large ogee that was much more pronounced)

hollysprings, I've been thinking about your comment since you posted! It makes me nervous. I don't like things extremely traditional or extremely modern. I guess I would lean more toward traditional but do like some transitional elements. I was thinking that the mitered edge or the edge like Romy's (with the eased edge under the ogee) could work. I have seen traditional kitchens with a mitered edge that look fantastic and transitional kitchens with an ogee stacked on an eased edge that also look good. Thoughts? I couldn't tell which one you were advising me to do or not do.

Does anyone know the answer to this - I have a 2 1/2" mitered flat edge and shaker overlay doors. When the doors were installed I noticed that I only have a 1/8" overlay over the door and drawer fronts. The counter does not protect the doors at all. Now the fabricator tells me that with a mitered edge they can only make a 1" overlay and not the 1 1/2 overlay that is standard with a flat eased edge. They said that when using a mitered edge only an inset door and drawer will do so that you can get enough overhang. Has anyone ever heard of this before? Any suggestions in how to correct this problem? How to add on to a granite edge. I can't rip out the countertop. Could possibly plane down the doors and drawers or make new inset doors and drawers but this is problematic to do.

To Mrs Pete & susyq53 The mesh is on the backside meaning underside of the 2cm slab (only one side polished). I'm guessing quarry put it on to add some strength during transport just in case. I'm not fully sure why mesh is put on and shy only some slabs. But I'm guessing it's probably for the thinner cut slabs and to manage risks during handling. I have attached pics of a sample piece from my stone supplier. You can see the mesh on the backside. It would not be visible when stone is installed but a couple inches of it would have to be removed from edge if they were to make the laminated butt seamed edge profile (to get stone touching stone without mesh in between). Oldryder explained it well how it may chip a bit while grinding this stuff off making that edge seam not super tight and thereby not as invisible. And Mrs Pete the waterfall is in regards to the 1.5" edge (with veining water-falling over along edge to match. I was considering a full 36" wall waterfall at the viewing end of this long island but not sure I have enough material and trying to avoid a 3rd slab. WRT waterfall mitered edges, I think it would be nice but may not be critical. I would hope a stone like this is pretty forgiving with it's coloration and veining that an edge piece taken from another part of the slab would still blend in pretty well along the edge. To the point of not jumping out at you as a mismatched edge unless you really studied it. Top/Front of TM sample Underside/Back of TM sample showing mesh