I agree about the soil, but I didn't know better when I bought it and everything was perfect until now. The two major things that happened right before this happened is I used the organic plant food concentrate and the soil dried out. I usually water in the morning but didn't get to watering until around noon. The leaves looked wilted when I went to water. Is it possible that the plant food or drying out would cause such quick damage? One of the tomatoes I pulled earlier today was definitely suffering from blossom end rot. The second one didn't look the same. The first one had that darkening flat area at the blossom end, but the second one had a dark ope,n sunken area in the middle of the fruit. Can that be a sign of blossom end rot as well? Could Fusarium crown and root rot or even fusarim wilt be the cause? Ive been doing so much reading and still can't figure out what went wrong and why. In any case, what can I do to improve this situation? Upon examining the tomatoes, I noticed several have the little dark spots towards the bottom. Is it hopeless for them? They only have one or a few dark little spots. Will the spots keep growing in size or is there a way I can stop it before it destroys the tomato? Also, the newer tomatoes don't have any spots and look good so far. Should I buy some kind of lime to increase the calcium? Upon further examination of the plants, I also noticed small dark spots on some leaves. *sigh* --Maggie

Sounds like a good thing to do but poo/doo is usually composted before being deployed in the garden, especially around edibles. You may get more response on the soil/mulch forum.

Didn't investigate fully Snarg but this trait of certain Roma types and especially heart shaped fruit types is common among heirloom types and the topic has been discussed on this forum in past years. Try looking up "Wispy leafed tomato types" . Some refer to it as "wilt gene" but in reality it is an expression of a number of genes. I think you have nothing to worry about based on the pisture. I'll add Green Sausage variety to the list that just look like a virus took over the plant but they do fine over time- at least they always have for me. Although I won't rule out that similar symptoms can be exibited by a number of viruses that affect tomatoes, the worst thing you can do at this time is to rip these plants from the ground until you understand the undermining cause.

If it's not a mineral deficiency, I believe the disease in question would be Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus rather than Curly Top Virus. AVRDC -- World Vegetable Center University of Hawaii UC Davis I see some leaflet cupping in polyfractal's photos, but I don't see the stunted, shortened leaflets from the TYLCV photos. That might mean polyfractal's tomato doesn't have TYLCV. But of course I'm not an expert. [I thought I remembered polyfractal saying he was downstate in North Carolina, and found a 2002 report of Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus in Henderson County (NC), where they do grow a lot of commercial tomatoes. That's a bit too close for comfort! Nematodes in Polk County, too. WNC is just chock-full of tomato peril.]