Nailing down the type of grass is difficult from a picture. Fortunately you mentioned Michigan, so the turf grasses are limited to fescue, rye, and Kentucky bluegrass. It's rare to find other types in the north. I'm going to guess Kentucky bluegrass, because I think I see runners (stolons) creeping across the surface trying to form a carpet. Fescue and rye grow one plant from each seed and do not spread across the surface like KBG does. KBG and rye grow only in the full sunlight while fescue can tolerate quite a bit more shade. For that reason many people will scatter a mix of all three (often called a triple mix), so that the three types can thrive in harmony. The likely reason it is not looking so hot right now is you are watering daily instead of weekly.

Watering:

Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, oscillator sprinkler (full sweep) and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and for the most part, in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Mowing:

Your mowing is fine for your grass types. You can read lots of magazine articles and even university reports that will tell you to mow at 2.962434236 inches, or some other oddly precise number, but what the translates to for us folks who cannot measure that precisely is this: mow at the mower's highest setting. And mulch mow while you're at it. The mulched grass clippings become organic fertilizer for the soil.

Fertilizing:

If you have a big time lawn service they are going to do what they want to do regardless of what you ask. If you have a lawn mower guy who happens to provide fertilizing, then you can influence him/her. The lawn needs fertilizer in late May, early September, and late November. Note that there are holidays at those times to remind you to do something. There is a lot of advertising in the early spring to encourage you to fertilize now, Now, NOW. Ignore all that even if your neighbors insist you are making a mistake. The fertilizer from the fall, plus what the soil microbes do over the winter, should carry you through the spring until May.

Overseeding:

This is where it helps to know where you live in MI. North or south. Feel free to name the nearest big city. Because timing is important. If you feel like you're going to have bare spots from the left over effects of this summer, then you will be overseeding. You can do that right after the summer heat breaks and the evening temps cool down. Your lawn guy might offer this service.

Other services:

Your lawn guy is almost certain to offer you core aeration, dethatching, fungus control, and insect control. Don't get talked into that stuff. Once you get your watering under control (deep and infrequent), you shouldn't need any of the extras. Are you interested in saving money on the lawn services? Fertilizing and mowing are not that hard, and not nearly as hot as doing it in AZ...unless you moved from Flag.

Here is a motivational picture showing the difference between a lawn watered weekly and the rest of the lawns watered daily.

This was posted by morpheuspa many years ago. All the lawns are Kentucky bluegrass. He fertilizes only with organic fertilizer, specifically soybean meal for the May and September applications. For the November application he waits until the grass has completely stopped growing but before the roots have gone dormant. Thus when he fertilizes all the fertilizer stays in the roots and does not result in sudden growth. The final, winterizer, application he uses is fast release, high nitrogen, 42-0-0 uncoated urea. The neighborhood is in eastern Pennsylvania, so a lot closer to you than to me.