#1...Make SURE that house is clean and dry b4 new work starts!! * Under many Reds, I'd use a gray primer. * Then...2 full coats of paint. #2...Call around to your paint-stores. * Reds fade the fastest. * Some paint-brands have colorants for Exterior only, in the bright shades like Red & Yellow. They will still fade though...although @ a slower rate...!! DO NOT USE OIL!!! > You can use a Oil primer, but use Latex for your paint. > Use a Satin (or a low-sheen Eggshell if avail.) for main body. Flats just hold dirt. NO WAY would I use Flat for main house. > Oils are often prone to mildew-problems in humid areas. Don't even consider it... Faron

Thanks Christophern for taking the time to reply and share your expertise. Have you used Zinsser 123 on cedar shanks before and, if so, did you have problems with tannin bleed? If we add some new shingles to replace a few rotten ones (brand new cedar, of course) would we want to pre-prime those first with an oil like Cover Stain, since new ones are more likely to bleed? Also, how would the Zinsser products compare to "paint store" brand primers you've used? What's the price difference per gallon there, approximately? Thanks to answers to any of the above and sorry to ask so many questions, but I really want to make a good decision before I spend hours and hours stripping, priming and painting.

Every house is different. The loose paint on your house can be a result of a dirty substrate or moisture problem. Both cause peeling paint. Both must be fixed before painting. When paint is peeling, primer will not stop the process. The loosely adhered paint must be scraped and then it should be feather sanded to break down the edges so that bridging doesn't happen when you repaint. Bridging is the edge of the old paint where it meets the undercoat or wood. When a sharp edge is left there,the paint on that edge is super thin and will crack and peel off in time. You can read the label on Peel Stop and decide if that fits your need. Other than that, removing loose paint is mandatory for a professional, long lasting finish. Power washing cedar and other wood products can be detrimental if done by inexperienced persons. Damaged wood is ugly when painted. Ask your choice of contractor if they know how to power wash wood surfaces. Most pro's do not use the "power" in a wash, just the soak and rinse feature. If he is using the power wash to remove the paint, he's damaging the wood surface and pushing water deep inside so that the paint will peel again in the near future. I've seen that a hundred times right here in my own development. Peeling paint; power washed house; same schmuck doing it. It sure keeps him busy though. LOL Michael

It seems to have become the wood of choice here. Our home was built in 1868 and the upstairs porch is on the side of the house that gets the most weather and is now in the shade of a huge maple tree. I agree that the raiing and spindles look beautiful in the natural state. It would look out of place to have only this unpainted. So, I am left with the painting dilemma and bleed through issues. I bought a primer, Max Wood, yesterday. I is oil based. I'll try it on a scrap to check dry time and bleed through. If you know of a better product for this application, please let me know. I can return this gallon and get something else.