Hi Kittenkat, we are remodeling our kitchen too and our floor guy says that Bona is the only way to go. i went into a benjamin moore store today where they don't even carry the Bona stain and the woman who worked there said Bona is the best product on the market. A second salesperson reiterated the same (not sure why they don't carry it at this particular store, but I didn't really ask). Apparently it is a miraculous product. Good luck!

My advice is to put the hardwood on the entire kitchen floor, including under the cabinets. You don't need to finish the hardwood under the cabinets, but as you say, if you ever want to reconfigure the kitchen cabinetry, you'll be glad you don't have to deal with pulling up plywood and piecing in hardwood in areas where new cabinets might not be in the same position as the old cabinets. It really doesn't cost much more to go with all hardwood. By the time you pay the labor for cutting plywood to piece in under the cabinets, the cost is similar. What type of hardwood are you putting down? If it's 3/4" tongue and groove, cupping isn't likely to pose major problems -- even if the flooring gets wet.

Janice , the best natural finish over White Oak comes from Bona with their Bona Traffice Naturale'. <- link Its Greenguard indoor air certified and very durable. Its made to offer the highest levels of durability and protection for the flooring while maintaining nearly the look of unfinished. We apply it to our American made flooring. Here is a list of recent projects using this finish <- link .

SJ McCarthy, I do have photos of the cracking and rising floor boards. And of the spotty finish, streaks, and drips. The boards have sat untouched and unfinished in our AC home for the last nine months, and within days of the oil and water applications the cracking and rising occurred. It’s been less than ten days since the floor has been finished. The guy who did the work was the owner of a highly rated flooring refinishing company in my area. We agreed to use a water-based finish which is on my contract as Poloplaz 1k water-based floor finish with a matte sheen. When he arrive he talked me into using an oil-based product instead, stating that it would keep the natural color as it is, but also preserve the wood. I apologize for repeating myself here -- I was so fearful of the oil yellowing the white oak which I stated many times to him, but he assured me if it did yellow it wouldn’t be for fifteen to twenty years. He said he would be using a clear, natural, expensive oil-based polyurethane finish that was newly opened. I'm not sure of the brand but I do have a photo of the yellow oil drip down the side of one of the white panels around the stairs. The next day after the oil application he added the matte flat water-based finish and I absolutely know what product he used because after the second coat was applied I followed him out to his truck voicing my concerns about the color/finish of the floor and he showed me the container… Bona Traffic HD extra matte. That’s when he blamed the product for the streaky look of the finish. He said he doesn’t like using this Bona product for quality reasons but because I insisted on a matte finish he didn’t have a choice. He said he could use a different product but it would leave a shine and not have the matte look I wanted. Thankfully the guy did not apply the 'natural poly' over the factory finished Shaw floors. My contract with him states that he would apply it over the entire dining area, and I was charged for it, but at the last minute the decision to not do it was made. The guy is not affiliated with my general contractor because I wanted to hire a flooring ‘professional’ who truly understood hardwood floor finishes. I was incredibly anxious and very select about what I wanted in the finish and it took me a while to find and then trust someone. Unfortunately I paid him in full. Contractors, here at least, are allowed to have a lien against your home if you withhold payment and because I'm not familiar with what that truly means legally for me, as the homeowner, I paid. Thank you for your information regarding an inspector from NWFA -- it's a great idea and I will most certainly make a few phone calls. Recent research has informed me that an oil-based polyurethane needs to cure for at least two weeks to 60 days before adding a water-based finish, do you know if that statement is true? And if so then the pro not waiting for the curing time before applying the water-based finish likely and knowingly voided the warranty on the Bona product -- he's been in business a long time so he would know. Also, is a natural polyurethane the same as an oil-based polyurethane? I'm just making sure I understand everything before speaking with an inspector. Thank you so very much for your advice and time, SJ McCarthy, I really appreciate all of your help.