Seeing as you are in Missouri, I would guess you have brown patch or something. Mine (I'm near KC) has terrible problems with it. If I were you, I would get something like propiconazole and treat the lawn. Granules aren't as effective as spray, I believe, but I have had some decent success with them. If you really wanted to get it dealt with you could do the powerful yet extremely expensive "Disarm" or "Heritage". Both of which are extremely expensive (they are similar products) but should work quite well. While you may not see the "dead" grass come back, the fungicide should prevent the rest from getting it, and likely you will see significant overall improvement. I would try some liquid (if possible, otherwise granular) fungicide. It won't hurt anything to try. I have heard that if the humidity and temperature add up to above 150 then you will likely get brown patch. Also if the grass blades are wet for 14 or more hours. Also, inspect the grass blades carefully. If there are some blades that have splotches of brown, yellow, etc in circles or random shapes, it would be a sign of brown patch. If everything is dead "lock, stock, and barrel", then it may be something else. BTW, how much seed did you put down when you seeded?

We live in the mountains of NC near Boone. Last week we were in the 60's and low 70's during the day and low 50's at night. Now it is warmer for a couple days, low 80's to mid 70's and high 50's at night, then it is suppose to cool back down to the 70's by the weekend. My husband says the climate here is like Canada. The grass was up and green but sections have turned brown in the overflow spillway. We planted some other areas in the yard without the matt and they have come up and are green with no brown spots. we can do a mix of grass. It has been several years since we have had any flooding but it just varies. We have had flooding that occurs several times in one year. My husband has a plan. Partially pull pull up the mat in the totally brown section, put down some topsoil, plant a mixture of fescue and rye grass, put the mat back down and secure it to the ground. Then water it and the next day spray the Immunox? What do you recommend?

Start fertilizing after you mow real grass, not just weeds, for the second time. If you had rye then the bermuda will come in a little late...like now. But it doesn't make sense to fertilize dormant bermuda. That's why you wait for the second mowing. You can use a herbicide like Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer on it now. If you decide to overseed the bermuda please wait until June when the soil is hotter. By then you will know if you even need to overseed it. Bermuda is pretty self sustaining once you have it, so I don't think you will need seed. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

HELP! I live in zone 7B. I'm not sure how this happened, but I have warm season grass AND cool season grass in my lawn. The cool season grass is a variety of fescues. I THINK the warm season grass is some sort of crawling zoysia (I never planted this). Each type seems to have it's own territory but there are many areas that are intermixed. If I fertilize or use weed-kill for my fescue, the warm season grass turns brown. Question: Is there a way to make these grasses compatible? Would my best option be to kill the larger warm grass patches & plant fescue since I'm in zone 7B?