I personally think the two doors look odd when "ganged" together with "unified trim." Perhaps what bothers me most is that there is no place to put the garage light that it doesn't look "off-centered." In your elevation drawing you show the garage light centered over the "unified doors." With it in that position, I immediately notice the light isn't lined up with the center of the garage door and so it looks "off". So, my first thought was to suggest that it would look better if you move the light over so that it is centered on the garage door. So I did a cut and paste revision of your elevation, moving the light over to the center of the garage door, like this... But that still looks "off" to me because now the light clearly isn't centered with the trim. So, then I thought, maybe if you didn't use "carriage style" garage doors but instead chose a simple panel garage door without an obvious a centerline... Okay, that looks a bit better to me but somehow it still doesn't feel quite right. So then I thought, maybe the problem is having just ONE light. What if she has two lights and centers one over the man door and the other an equal distance from the opposite end of the trim. That might move the light over the overhead door far enough from the center of the door that one doesn't get the feeling that is somehow SHOULD be centered over the door. So, here is that one... My final thought was, what if she used a slightly narrower man door (32" instead of 36") and then moved both doors an inch or so closer to the edges of the garage? That would allow enough room for the doors to be trimmed separately and have a tiny bit of siding showing between the trim. So, I made the man door 10% narrower and move it and the overhead door apart a tiny bit, resulting in this... Personally, I think separating the doors looks best. And, since you could open the overhead door if you needed to bring in something that wouldn't fit easily thru a 32" wide door, there is really no reason why that man door has to be 36 inches wide. It is not that difficult to find 32" wide exterior doors. Plus, having a narrower door there would also help to emphasize that this isn't the "front door." Anyway, just thought all these revised elevations might help you think thru various possibilities.

If the main light blinks 10 times and the door reverses to the open position it is a door sensor problem. Sometimes they are aligned closely enough that the lights will look fine but if you get real close you will see one of them flickering ever so slightly. This will cause the problem you are having.

Probably because the door is too tight to the jambs creating an OBSTRUCTION and the opener force safety system is sensing this. What I mean is when a door opens it opens at an angle away from the wall. The vertical tracks are the tracks that the door is in when is it fully closed are adjustable. As the door opens it comes away from the wall and as it closes it gets closeer to the wall. The tracks might be too tight causing the door to jamb up on the way down. Disconnect the door from the opener. Close the door manually. Is it hard to close half way down? If so check to make sure that the door panels are not digging into the door jambs. Check to make sure that one of the sections has not buckled on you when the door is up. If you get to the point where the door is binding up and there is clearance between the door and the jamb look at the 2nd or 3rd section if it is folding inward towards the ground, push it straight up in the middle of the section while pullin the door closed at the same time. The door is being obstructed by something. That is the only way the opener rail is going to bow up.

The door spring may be tensioned too tight. When disconnected from the drive mechanism, does the door open by itself and/or is there resistance when you pull it down to close it?