Prob too late for OP but not for others. The info remains the same about the peat moss & cull wood. I got 10yrs (AND STILL GOING) out of some of these untreated boxes. Posted by gumby_ct CT it says Z5 (My Page) on Sat, Apr 11, 09 at 8:47 If it's not too late maybe you can save some money by not using peat moss. Since it adds no nutrient value to the soil many either add more compost or just leave the peat out of the mix. The peat only serves to hold moisture, if you have enuff organic matter perhaps you can save there. HD also has a cull wood bin. I give a description how I did mine in the link below. Cost of setting up boxes http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/sqfoot/msg041730096565.html Here is a link that might be useful: Borders for Bed Gardening Borders for Bed Gardening What I do is go to Home Depot (HD) lumber section where they have scrap wood. They call it cull wood. Not sure if Lowes does the same. Cull wood usually has some defect. Where it is warped, nicked, chipped, split, cracked, used, or just generally less than perfect. Who cares, just going in the garden anyway. The store I go to cuts the wood into 4ft. lengths (perfect) other stores 3 or 5ft. The wood is usually kept on a cart somewhere in the lumber dept. Ask if you don't see it, it will saves lots of time. HD colors codes the price for these pieces. Green (51 cents), Yellow $1.01, Orange $2.01, and Red $4.01. I have noticed some stores think their scrap is priceless. The guy at my store keeps the wood moving by painting it green. Needless to say I generally wait for the best price :-). I check everyday cause it moves fast, esp. the green. What is there in the AM won't likely be there in the PM. The wood varies but could be anywhere from 1"x2" to 2"x12", or 2x4ft plywood (I made many shelves from the plywood), could be pressure treated (they don't use arsenic anymore but copper and that is another discussion) or the composite used for decks (tho the composite IS more $$, and heavy too). I can get in & out of the store in less than 5min IF they don't have any green. Sometimes the length varies but I grab one of their tape measures so I know what I am getting. I don't like to have to cut. The 4 ft lengths will fit nicely into the back seat of most cars and are far lighter than cinder blocks (less expensive too). To illustrate an example, say they have 4 2x6's painted green. You look them over decide they will work and pay .51x4=$2.04 plus .13 (6%)tax = $2.17 Not bad. Now you have to add the cost of the hardware. I use some 3.5x3 inch angle brackets I have had laying around for some 20+ yrs. and 2 sheet-rock screws in each side of the bracket (4x4=16 screws). You can use nails, 3in sheet-rock screws, buy some angle brackets, or whatever you have on hand. So you want to make your beds 12" deep? Grab 4 more 2x6's and lay it on top & use a scrap piece to screw or nail the top to the bottom or don't bother. Cost= $4.34 plus whatever you use for hardware. You can paint them or just leave them. Even pine is likely to last 5yrs or more untreated. Anchor them? I don't bother, haven't seen one walk away yet. If you need to move it, just grab one end move it inches or feet. Level it? Well kinda anyway. The down side. Well it won't be a perfect 48x48 inches. It may come out to be 45x48in depending on the thickness of the lumber you use. I don't sweat it. To make a perfect 48x48 with 2x lumber, you will need 2 lengths of 51 inch and 2 at 48 inch. So what happens if you have to pay full price? A 2"x6"x8ft piece of Douglas fir (cheap stuff) cost $5.27 plus .32 tax= $5.59 You get one free cut per board (cut to 4ft length making it easier to transport even in a Honda Civic). You will need 16ft so double the cost =$11.18. Of course if you don't want to build your bed up, you could use 2x4's (little over $6 for 2-8ft lengths), use 1x2's, or simply use string or rope tied to some stakes pounded into the corners to mark the perimeter. Or simply get creative. The whole idea, NOT to walk on the planting surface. So think outside the box, just don't walk in the box. Will untreated wood last as long as cinder blocks? No. Does it look as nice? Maybe, if you paint or otherwise decorate it. Then it may last as long. Is wood cheaper than cinder? Definitely. Easier to move? YES. Consider a cinder block is 8 inches wide. 2x8=16 inches off your planting area. That is 48-16=32, unless you choose to reach across a width of 48+16=64 inches. That is 5ft 4in. if my math is right. Quite the stretch. I prefer to avoid cinders, rocks, or anything slugs can hide under. I use leaves, pine needles, cardboard, newspapers, or something that will decompose and attract earthworms in the aisles to keep the weeds to a minimum. That's MY story and I'm sticking to it. Hope it helps. Life consist of a series of choices and seems to be a learning process. Wishing you happiness, Gumby Here is a link that might be useful: Cost of setting up boxes

Unless pricing has changed, my fabricators pricing (Ohio) for 47SF would run somewhere between $4250 and $4800. This includes material, sink cutout, laser template, fabricate, delivery and set tops. Does not include plumbing or electrical hookups. Does not include tearout of old tops or debris removal.

I'm in the midst of this now myself and to me what your GC is proposing sounds acceptable / reasonable. That's the way we're doing it: I've taken our (v. detailed) kitchen plan to the various tile places (still haven't decided which to use) and so far they're all coming up with the same amounts (which is what my husband and I estimated when we did the math). Early on in my professional relationship with our GC we did talk about tile choices: once he heard the tiles I was thinking of he said he wasn't going to add an allowance because of the (enormous) cost discrepancies. I appreciated that, that he'd supply the labor but wouldn't make any money off me for the tile itself. So I've not been through this process completely, but as of now, what you wrote sounds fine. With that being said, if you're having any misgivings LISTEN TO THEM. Trust your instinct and seriously think about working with a different GC. What was his response when you told him you expect him to provide all the info? How did you feel about it? It's better to take the time now interviewing away so that you have a good match with the person who will be organizing and, to some extent, overseeing your kitchen remodel. (I write "to some extent" because obviously you and your husband are the ultimate overseers.) Good luck, Tina.

Many will give you the retail price, and the fabricator gets a discount. Taj Mahal is one of the more expensive selections and at 3cm vs 2 cm you've added more material & labor cost. Quartzite is harder to cut, and 3cm is 50% heavier than 2cm, so a little slower and possibly more bodies to install. Locally, the material prices for this color vary widely when its in short supply.