Is this a veneer? Plywood?
Jennifer H
10 months ago
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Comments (14)
Jennifer H
10 months agolast modified: 10 months agoJennifer H
10 months agoRelated Discussions
Adhering wood panels to refrigerator door
Comments (8)Thanks for responding again. I forgot to mention in my first post, that there are permanent metal slots on 3 sides that actually hold the panel: Top, inside opening door handle side, and bottom. So the weight is supported by something substantial, and it canÂt gap on those 3 sides. The 4th side (the problem side with the gap and the strip that wonÂt hold it in) is the one with the removable strip that attaches with magnets: because thatÂs the side where you have to slide the panel in. We did most of the work ourselves, too. IÂm very comfortable working with wood, and my husband does the electrical and plumbing. Only the tile work we had done by a pro, and that was only because we had so much to do and needed a new subfloor. I tend to forget that most other people donÂt do these things themselves: when I scanned recent posts on the Kitchen forum I realized that most questions were about design issues or which items to buy....See MoreCherry finished wall file shelving - help
Comments (3)I just completed a very large entertainment unit for my own living room. Although the design is different from what you've described, the technique I used could give you the strength you're looking for at a reasonable price. If you're thinking of painting the visible portion of the back, you could go with a $15 4x8 sheet of 5/8 BC plywood, sand it, then stain with the same stain you use on the rest. If it isn't going to be visible, I'd probably start with a 60 or 80 grit and finish somewhere at 120 or 150, but no higher. You might want to look at 1/4 inch tempered hardboard, if price is really an issue, but bear in mind that tempered hardboard has the same limitations of MDF. For the shelves, I'd build a small skeleton for each shelf from select grade pine (or inexpensive hardwood) 1x2's, the same width as the interior dimension of the shelving case, and rabbet around the inside upper edge of the frame, to place the plywood shelving material. Make sure that with a height of 7 feet, you have two of the shelves fixed in place, for stability. For something this size and purpose, you'll also want to consider a torsion box construction for your verticals. This is essentially a sandwich of plywood on either side of a 1x2 frame. This is then fronted by some nicer looking solid wood. For the basic structure outlined there, you can probably get away with more inexpensive materials (sticking of course, to wood and plywood.), and based on how much wood you need, and what I spent on my last projects, you're looking at anywhere between $200 and $300 USD. Considering the quote you mentioned, this is a bit more reasonable. Once you've got your basic structure built, you can start looking at more expensive facing material, perhaps even solid cherry for the fronts of the shelving and vertical members. Not sure what cherry is going for, I've not any experience with it, but if you stick to buying only what you need for the exterior, cosmetic elements, it shouldn't be too much....See MoreNeed wood veneer countertop advice
Comments (4)"First question is, do you think veneered plywood is a terrible idea?" In a seldom-used bar, no. "Second question is what is the best way to treat the veneer for long-term durability and protection from moisture and dings from dropped bottle openers, corkscrews, etc?" Polyurethane and a coat of wax. No ding protection; you've got a 64th inch of veneer and that's it. I've had guys sand through it....See MoreNeed advice on wood veneer countertop
Comments (3)I wish I knew what our contractor used on ours. His sub built the cabinetry, then topped it with 2" thick butcher block! WHAT???? I was horrified. We told him to stain it to match the cabinetry, and it looks amazing! After 3 years, no chips, no scratches, a mirror shine and no spills have hurt it. He probably used epoxy, a few coats, not sure, but we get so many compliments on it, I do LOVE the wood counter top. Because of it, the entire pub (we call ours a pub) smacks "Class." We used Benjamin Moore Color Series paint on the walls. It is pure color with no dulling grays, so the walls reflect color. The ceiling is a dark navy semi gloss, and the walls are a medium/dark flat cocoa-ish color. We have an awesome view of pines and rustic homes out the window, but it's on the west side, so when it's time to watch TV, it has a room darkening shade. As far as the actual bar with the bar stools for guests, it's got black granite. It was a nightmare for the installer! It's curved, so they did have a few issues, but we just love it. I wanted the butcher block, but there was no way they could curve that stuff so we went with granite. Good luck to you!...See MoreJennifer H
10 months agoJennifer H
10 months agoHALLETT & Co.
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