Pull up your range manufacturers installation specs and measurements. Some do do use a compressed foam gasket, which is to level out any countertop irregularities, or to provide a minute heat separator for some counter types, like Corian. Some want the flange directly on stone. Check to see which yours specifies. Check to be sure that the counters to either side are level front to back and side to side. Check to see if the rangetop is level too. That sounds like overkill, I know. But before you seal the rangetop to the counter, you want to be sure that you won’t have to take it out soon and tweak any slight incorrect install. It’s weight should bear on the counters, but the majority of it should be supported from underneath. Which is why the fact that there is a gap needs to be assessed to see if it’s installed correctly.

Is that a gap or is it old caulking or some type of silicone sealer that's peeking out in spots? If it's the latter, that could be part of the problem. There appears to be gaps or spaces in between as though a continuous bead wasn't laid properly. Or maybe it just fell apart over time...? If there is in fact a caulk or sealer you'll have to remove the old one first. And make sure it's super clean before you just redo the lousy job whomever did before. You certainly don't want that!

Really appreciate all the feedback I’ve been getting. To the left of the misaligned counter is our fridge. I wonder if they would be able to just move it over slightly as it seems like the back end still has some clearance. Otherwise, like it’s been mentioned, and they move just the front end over to the right to cover the base cabinet then it will create a bit of a gap on the left back end. We do plan to eventually get backsplash though so it shouldn’t be too much of a concern if that is the route we need to take. As for the caulking on the island, my GC and I actually made sure it was leveled prior to counter installation so it’s weird there is that much of a gap. It could be that we only checked the leveling of the front and back of the cabinet and not just the front horizontally.

@opaone raises an important point that I'd like to expand upon. Commercial hood operation and its MUA support is one of the highest cost activities for commercial kitchens. The hoods run for long durations, and often require air conditioned make-up air, at least into any restaurant customer area where the pressure is set a tad higher to keep out kitchen odors. Commercial systems are thus designed for power efficiency. In residences, the hoods are operated for shorter periods of time, and typically (where MUA is nearly free) the cost of operation is small in the overall household power budget. Affordability then tends to be a matter of capital cost -- buying the hood, blower, ducting, and its MUA counterpart components and installing them. Striving for power efficiency through higher capital costs will take a very long time to pay off. Also, typical residential kitchens are ill suited aesthetically and space-wise for incorporating commercial hoods. The intermediate case is where the household is subject to stringent air quality requirements that cannot be met by just fresh air exchange. In such as case, treating MUA can be expensive, and the requirement for almost total cooking plume removal requires a large hood, high flow rate, and a lot of MUA. Here, commercial or quasi-commercial systems like opaone has incorporated may be optimal from an overall cost and performance point of view.