Hi, It really depends on whether your existing floor can be refinished. If so, it's easily the better option. I have seen 3/8" or 5/16" t&g floors that can withstand one refinishing. Since it's almost 40 years old, it's a valid question whether it's already been sanded. A floor pro should be able to tell by looking. Look in a corner or at a doorway to see if there's a sign it's been sanded. You can also pull of a piece of baseboard or shoemold to see the edge. You probably would only recoup a percentage of the amount spent to replace the floor and that's assuming that buyers like what you pick. What does the $3.50 per square foot price include? Stain? What type of surface finish? Are they using dust pickup machinery? The stair refinishing price sounds high. Are the treads open on either end or do they butt into walls or skirt boards on both sides? Is there a cove mold to replace or refinish? We just finished refinishing an Oak stair stained to match a Mahogany floor so the stair and floor don't necessarily have to match.

OK! Yes I can definitely see the 1939 there. Not quite into modern era but beyond early 1900s. I think my original opinion still stands - what do the door and window trim look like- the piece in the pic looks kinda solid, more substantial than the baseboard? Why do you say door is "hollow core" - looks to me like solid wood framing or possibly veneered with plywood inset panels...? If it truly is hollow prob not worth it.... or if veneered and badly chipped.... but if not it look great refinished - with that wild grain and door knobs that's the kind of period detail that is irreplaceable. I dont know if I would remove any trim. The beauty of flat plain surfaces is that you could get a really good high powered palm type sander able to hook up to a vac and just have at it. If you were to use a gel stain you wouldn't even have to take off all the original finish just enough to smooth and clean up the wood. Re upgrading to "better quality" - I don't know if anything that great or period appropriate can be found in a big box store - the fake Victorian stuff is way too thin and unsubstantial not to mention out of character with 1939. Would have to come from specialty place (in fact I think Ive seen that same baseboard once in a catalog LOL) or be milled but either of those two aren't really prohibitively expensive IMHO - just a simple flat trim of some sort would be good. Or if your house is small you might find something in a large enough quantity in an architectural salvage place. Klem you have a question mark after your last sentence - don't you think the oak trim and floor looks good together? Even if OP replaces I must say that the oak + oak looks good.

Lovely, love the colors and finish. I would say the traditional door is closer to what you currently have and would go better with the bench under the window (if they are not changing that). BUT... the piece over the window looks more like the shaker door??? I think the shaker door would go better with the new hardware and backsplash tile

The door was new in 2001. It was stained and coated by the painters we'd employed to paint the interior of the house. It had a little work by a furniture repairman about five years ago. He was sent by the furniture company whose deliveryman had scraped the door. ('Meh' work ethic.) At my request, Jeld-Wen (IWP Custom Wood Doors) emailed me detailed instructions that covers both new doors and refinishing old doors. I have used the wrong term here when I said "Refinishing". The door is just starting to dry out, with little surface flaking. According to the manufacturer, this requires only "Restoring Finish", not "Removing Finish". So...maybe the painter's bid is adequate, although I don't understand his 'shorthand' that just says, "Stain and finish entry door, two coats...$320." I'd thought the door would have to be taken off the hinges; hardware removed; steel wool, sanding, coating, etc. When I asked about this he said he would not remove the door or remove the hardware. (Mortise lock too difficult to reset.) Ours is not a 'cheap labor' area. The cost seems too little to me for the time I'm thinking this should take. I don't think the lumber yard that ordered the door for us is still in business (Hines), but I could search for another one to ask for a recommendation. (Maybe this post will be of some use to people just buying new wood entry doors!)