Letting the plant wilt over and over can kill off roots and lead to rot. Let the top inch or two start to feel almost dry, or near dry, then water well. Only re-pot when it really needs it, when the roots are more than the soil, or when the roots are wrapped around and around throughout the rootball in circle's . Reg soil is fine, just make sure it's fast draining. You can add Perlite to the soil which will help. You can use a plastic or clay pot, as long as it's watering needs are taken of. I use a large clay pot. Other's prefer plastic. Even with clay, I only water once a week because it's large. With a plastic pot, you'll water less. Billy Rae

Toni gave you some excellent advice!I think she has one that's also as old as mine.16-17 yrs right Toni? Most plants like to be snug in their pots with an inch to spare between the root-ball and inside of the pot, that way, it's not over-potted with unused excess soil that can stay too wet, or not get enough water to all the roots causing many problems. If your plant was in a 6" (what you said in first post) or an 8" pot, moving it to a 12" pot is way too big. Go up just one size larger and only when you absolutely need to, like if the pot is (root-bound) Pot being more full of roots than soil and can no longer hold water, instead, water runs straight through and plant wilts again in matter of just a couple days. If your peace lily will fit back into the 6" or 8" which ever has an inch to spare, I'd move it back and get rid of any of extra soil and add a handful or so of Perlite (siliceous volcanic rock) so there is an almost even distribution. Don't feed! Plants that are not doing well should NOT be fertilized at all, only healthy growing ones will benefit and even then it should be used sparingly and half or less strength of what the directions say. A bag of "Perlite" can be found at places like Walmart, Lowe's, or Home Depot, most places that sell bagged houseplant soil. It helps with drainage because many bag soils are heavy and can smother the roots. Perlite will make it more airy. Peace lilies like semi moist soil, so when the top inch starts to feel "almost" dry, it's time to water. Water it thoroughly all around the top of the soil until it comes out the bottom. Spill out any excess in the saucer afterwords so the pots not sitting in water keeping the soil soggy wet for a week. Keep it indoors if you were putting it outside before. Give it bright 'indirect" light and/or dapple sun but not direct hot afternoon sun or the leaves will wilt and burn. You can also grow this plant in just plain water. Billy Rae

It's a Spathiphyllum and not a true lily. This is a plant you have to work very hard to kill. It looks to be in a pretty small pot now; transplanting it now into a bigger one with good drainage wouldn't hurt it nor would waiting a few months - and an all-purpose potting soil is fine. They tend to set more blooms when not pot bound. I water mine when the leaves droop; and watering from the top or bottom doesn't seem to matter. If needed, snip off any yellowed leaves just to keep it tidy. Avoid over watering in any case, and keep out of direct sunlight. Ordinary room light should be sufficient... which is why they're such popular plants for offices, enclosed malls, etc.

u'll need to be patient with this opus as i don't want u to either dry up or cook yr plant. if it has safety shut-off feature - then it's useless. the cheap old ones stay on forever :). that's the one u want. it has 3 settings: low-med-high. some newer ones heat less at high settings. for small up to 6" pots med is prolly enough just to warm up the root ball gently. your pot is bigger - so high setting will be good. If you're uncertain you can stick a digital probe inside the pot and take readings (like for meat roasts). i found on mine that the bottom of soil heats up to 85F . that's very good. tropicals love it. when summer temps are in 95F range - the soil heats up almost as much. so 85F is nice and balmy spring going into summer. 80F is good too. 90F is borderline, so u might reduce the setting to lower. you put your plant on it and keep it on it for 2-4 weeks. it'll keep the air very warm around the plant too, but the heat can decrease humidity - what u dont' want. the bottom of the pot should be in contact with the surface of the pad, but thin plastic liner is ok. and you'll need it to be able to water the plant now and then. so you put the pot on a wide plastic liner, like tall cake cover or half a deep salad clam shell..now! you might start buying those salads finally! :))). and pour some water into it, like an 1/2 inch. yes, the bottom of the pot would be sort of in water - but it'll get slurped up very fast. and the bottom of the pot will tend to dry up faster - but that is what you want at the moment, to keep it warm and mod-moist. you'll need to replenish 1/2- 1" of water often. immediately after dunking you don't need that 1/2" inch, since the soil is soggy wet and you need to dry up faster. after a day or 2 you should add water though. u won't need to water from the top and most likely you shouldn't, just from the bottom. but watch it and as the top should never become dry in this set-up. alternatively, just drop the big plastic bag (like dry-cleaners) on top of the plant with ends trailing inside the tall saucer - and you'll have a heated terrarium. there will be condensation on the bag and it will roll down into the saucer. condensation is ok for now. later after a week or so, we want less condensation, as too much and leaves touching can cause leaf-rot. usually a little steamy is ok. you can stick a tall stake inside the bag to keep the bag high and away from the plant. and so we advance from spa to 'steam-bath' facials ;)...aha-ha-ha..LOL.