Sorry to hear that your mama passed away. I can understand why the plants mean a lot to you. The good news is that I do think these plants can be saved. They don't look like they are imminently going to die. A couple of questions that might help to better figure out how to improve them: Do you let the water drain out of the pots when you water them? How much light do they get? Are they near a window? Which way does the window face? This post was edited by summersunshine on Mon, Mar 31, 14 at 1:07

".... correct me if i am wrong [sic] ..... OK - you're wrong. At this juncture, I think neither of us know what you're talking about. 3:1:2 is a fertilizer ratio very frequently mentioned - nothing to do with any soils I've ever suggested. Whenever it came to discussions about soils, Steve's offerings were peppered with comments like these: "In a variety of links on this site [GW] Al offers very good porous soil mixes that can encourage an aroid to live a long time and grow to a larger size as well as remain healthy. The correct mix and proper watering are far more important than the size of the pot ........ Al, can I suggest you post a link to some of your articles on soil? Steve Corresponding Secretary, The International Aroid Society" "Again, I have to say I fully agree with Al's writings. Pot size is not nearly as important as soil mixtures and proper water (along with adequate light) are the most important factors to successful growth. Like many things in house plant growth, pot size is not well understood nor well explained to many growers." "I have spent a great deal of time studying this subject just as Al has, especially with botanists such as Dr. Tom Croat at the Missouri Botanical Garden and many others. I am also well aware that many people on this and other forums prefer that discussions not be based on science since this is a place where the average grower asks questions. I cannot help but believe many of those people want really good answers to their questions so again my thanks to Al." "Whatever anyone chooses to do is their business. Any grower is entitled to do anything they choose to do but if my email is any indication there are tons of folks out there that want to know how to grow plants as they grow in nature. We receive about 1/2 million hits to our website every year from all over the world and most of them are seeking scientific answers just as Al provides." "I just don't know how to explain things without explaining enough so a grower understands both the concept and the background provided by science. You can find some very good discussions on this forum about soil so if this is useless, please try to find a few of them now, mostly written by Al Tapla." "Just a word of thanks for the information. I have agreed fully with Al's information for many years ..... Thanks again! Steve Lucas www.ExoticRainforest.com" "Al, that is one of the finest growing statements I have ever read! I try to explain this all the time but you have made the statement concisely and quite clearly! Where do people come up with the idea plants "like" to be in such conditions? Thanks! Steve" There are many more .... and I used to email back & forth with Steve from time to time when he had questions or comments about soils. I wish he was still around so he could have offered input on some of the recent soil threads. Steve was always well thought of, and I always appreciated his support. Al

Toni gave you some excellent advice!I think she has one that's also as old as mine.16-17 yrs right Toni? Most plants like to be snug in their pots with an inch to spare between the root-ball and inside of the pot, that way, it's not over-potted with unused excess soil that can stay too wet, or not get enough water to all the roots causing many problems. If your plant was in a 6" (what you said in first post) or an 8" pot, moving it to a 12" pot is way too big. Go up just one size larger and only when you absolutely need to, like if the pot is (root-bound) Pot being more full of roots than soil and can no longer hold water, instead, water runs straight through and plant wilts again in matter of just a couple days. If your peace lily will fit back into the 6" or 8" which ever has an inch to spare, I'd move it back and get rid of any of extra soil and add a handful or so of Perlite (siliceous volcanic rock) so there is an almost even distribution. Don't feed! Plants that are not doing well should NOT be fertilized at all, only healthy growing ones will benefit and even then it should be used sparingly and half or less strength of what the directions say. A bag of "Perlite" can be found at places like Walmart, Lowe's, or Home Depot, most places that sell bagged houseplant soil. It helps with drainage because many bag soils are heavy and can smother the roots. Perlite will make it more airy. Peace lilies like semi moist soil, so when the top inch starts to feel "almost" dry, it's time to water. Water it thoroughly all around the top of the soil until it comes out the bottom. Spill out any excess in the saucer afterwords so the pots not sitting in water keeping the soil soggy wet for a week. Keep it indoors if you were putting it outside before. Give it bright 'indirect" light and/or dapple sun but not direct hot afternoon sun or the leaves will wilt and burn. You can also grow this plant in just plain water. Billy Rae

It's a Spathiphyllum and not a true lily. This is a plant you have to work very hard to kill. It looks to be in a pretty small pot now; transplanting it now into a bigger one with good drainage wouldn't hurt it nor would waiting a few months - and an all-purpose potting soil is fine. They tend to set more blooms when not pot bound. I water mine when the leaves droop; and watering from the top or bottom doesn't seem to matter. If needed, snip off any yellowed leaves just to keep it tidy. Avoid over watering in any case, and keep out of direct sunlight. Ordinary room light should be sufficient... which is why they're such popular plants for offices, enclosed malls, etc.