The owner of the company (an engineer) told me to never use any hardwood floor cleaners on my engineered hardwood or any solid hardwood. He advised that they gunk up the wood and eventually make it look ugly. He said to use a dustmop, and occasionally use a barely damp mop.

Hi Lauren, Often home depot has collections that have been relabeled for sale only at home depot. To cross over what the real manufacturer's name is may be difficult. We run into this with carpet and hard surface often with people comparing us and home depot. Not sure on this particular style but that is my best guess as to why you are not seeing reviews and product information elsewhere. Good luck!

SJ McCarthy, our contract is stated we are responsible for the materials and we pay for the labor. Unfortunately we never met nor discuss with the owner but only discussed in details ( in the proposal) with the project manager who is the solely the carpenter.) We just found out there were a lot of the DETAILS from the proposal were not explained (per the PM,but who knows) in detail to the owner or almost like "bait and switch" - for example like item #2- he spent more time because the owner did not get him another helper to help him- I told him this should not be the customer's expenses-Anyway we are willing to pay for it. The owner was offering to renew and establish a new contract from the original contact ( we felt that he cherry picking the items from the proposal, we marked them up then again he decided not to included) for the unfinished works . Once he agreed in our 2nd meeting (another example: he agreed tiling our study room to be included from the original contact in our 1st meeting then when he write the REVISED CONTRACT- he wants to charge us ), but again we are facing the same old stories-he tried to change the wording. We were burned so many times and now we diligently review line by line knowing the owner's personality. He kept saying he lived by the contract-then I told him then he should honor the low estimated to install our engineering hardwood floor including removing the carpet-in the end he says he would honor but he did not including the cost in the new REVISED contract which we add into it - we are so tired with his games. So now we put a contingency - once we agree with the new contract, no more additional expenses from the previous work was done- and we do agree that we need to be notified first and need both signatures for additional expenses from the new contract. and no more point finger of "not included" since we have discussed in detailed and are in the contract. The new addition has a hardwood floor installed - with Dri-core. Once hardwood floor was installed- they are some areas squeak- we were told by PM -put a marked up then he would fasten without explaining to us-these would be additional ridiculous charges (PM told the owner, too-we told PM that they should explain it to us- ) Regarding the installing the engineering hardwood floor is for our existing rooms(concrete slabs that has plywood already)- we are told just to put a vapour barrier. Is it possible to let me know what brands for the glues have to be moisture resistant ($2/sf) or moisture PROOF ($3/sf).? The manufacture instruction suggests to use Franklin Tongue and Groove adhesive (cross linking polyaliphactic emulsion glue) www.titebond.com -any suggestions? This Applachian engineering hardwood floor - FLOATING only needs GLUE between the wood (tongue and groove per the manufacture manual ) then would be FLOAT - this is not to be GLUE DOWN on our concrete floor (could be glue down if necessary but not in our case). Here is the website- on PAGE 9 http://www.appalachianflooring.com/uploads/general/documents/engineered-installation-guide.pdf We trust the PM and we pay for it- we just want to move on and complete the project-It has been almost 10 months. We have to do what we have to do to protect ourselves now- The owner refuses to install our towel bar in our new shower without charging us, and we told him we will take care them by ourselves. I will update this post and hoping for a better solution. Thank you

A few things at play here: Thicker veneer only really matters if you think you'll actually be in the house long enough to need to refinish it.... Also, are you experienced living with hardwood and how hard are you on them? My mom has hardwood floors that she refinished 30 years ago and they still look new because she doesn't move furniture without protectors, she makes sure to sweep up grit and sand and she doesn't wear her shoes in the house. She could buy 1mm thick wear layer and never know the difference, but some people absolutely trash their hardwood. Also....refinishing is EXPENSIVE, running between $5-8 sq. ft. It may be cheaper to just buy a thinner veneer layer and in 15-20 years if it is in rough shape just put in new floors instead of refinish. Plywood cores are much better than MDF no matter what anyone says. MDF WILL swell and be damaged if it gets wet and is allowed to sit. Plywood isn't waterproof or immune to water damage by any means but it isn't a life and death emergency every time someone spills something. MDF also does not have any structural strength when it comes to deflection resistance. If there are small depressions that are missed in the subfloor or a bit of deflection between joists, MDF will flex more and possibly de-laminate or crack the veneer over time.