Sorry, I missed this question. Your silencer is to be located between the blower and the hood. In that location it is able to reduce the higher frequency blade tip turbulence noise, and downstream (blower side) duct turbulence noise by a significant factor. (I believe Fantech publishes values.) Because the silencer is of practical size, there is a lower frequency below which it will not materially reduce duct noise. This is only important if the blower generates lower frequency noise, most likely due to an unbalanced fan blade assembly. Viking's silencer may be manufactured by Fantech, or Broan. If you look into a Fantech silencer, the interior sheet metal may be seen to be roughly the size of the duct and perforated; the outer diameter of the silencer then provides a cavity between perforations and outer wall. The noise-cancellation principle used is not unlike that of a small arms silencer, or of an automobile muffler. kas

I second the post above. Read the manual very very carefully. We had a wood burner installed by a fireplace company and I reviewed their work after reading the manual and found many mistakes. The insulation has to be done right and there are usually requiements for cement board around the perimeter of the firebox (on the inside wall) and on the top of the hearth if it is raised. You also have requirements for spacing between firebox and any combustable framing. And many venting requirements. You should also check your local building code for fire protection which is generally discussed in the fireplace install manuals but your local code may have additional install requirements. We needed firestops installed inside the chase between each floor and any penetrations for flues through those firestops had to be filled with non cobustable insuation (rock wool). Just remember that the appliance you are installing can kill you if not done properly. I would also put a CO detector in the room the fireplace is in.

I am replacing my existing sealed fireplace insert (Superior) with a new one (Majestic). I am also replacing the flue pipe as the Majestic pipe is much larger than the Superior. They are both listed as 42" models. However, the new Majestic is actually close to 1 inch wider. I really do not want to mess with my simulated stone facing...I heard they do not cut or "shave " well. So the question is...will I have problems if I simply have about 1/3" of my simulated stone extending over the edge of the fireplace insert? I had one contractor tell me yes it will be a problem, as a lot of heat will be absorbed by this lip and irradiated throughout the surround. I had another contractor tell me no, the simulated stone is fireproof and does not absorb much heat. I'm hoping this guy was right. I'm not looking for purist advice (I know this will be less than perfect), just some pragmatic feedback on real world implications as it will be extremely costly to recontour my existing simulkated stone facing (we are planning to replace the insert through the wall behind the front of the fireplace...leaving the stone intact other than the need for some mortar around the edges where it meets the insert). Need quick help...the work is scheduled to be done any day now!

The timer switch is just RATED to 20amps, I doubt very much the fan draws that much, in fact your load always needs to be well below the rating of all the associated items like switches etc - so in essence, it's probably fine to be wired from the GFCI if it's possible. Most codes require GFCIs on the outlets in bathrooms and I thought some did lights, too. The risk is the proximity to moisture - say a kid directed water upwards that hit the fan - or if you have a hand held shower head, you accidentally spray it, or the shower head splits, etc. A GFCI breaker on the switchboard's the easiest way to fix it, and you'll have the benefit of additional safety on the rest of the circuit. Well worth it, I say. In Australia, all new homes or major electrical work, requires the installation of a whole-house safety switch or GFCI, it's not a breaker as such so it can interrupt the active to any circuit in the house if it detects a leak to earth, ironically, in your case, they don't usually require (and it's not usually done) protection of the lighting circuits. Put another way, you won't be risking your life or others' lives by putting a switch in, but you might save one, down the line.