@michelerossi Could I therefore already carry out a repotting with pruning of the roots? The answer isn't an easy yes or no. Obviously, you can do whatever you want when you want, but that isn't always the best approach. If I had to make the decision, I would weigh a number of factors, the plant's current level of vitality, light levels, current temperatures, and whether of not I felt it was an emergency situation (whether the plant is likely or unlikely to survive (w/o repotting) until the most appropriate time to repot. You might also have other factors like your schedule or commitments to consider. If the plant is not in danger of succumbing to root rot or the congestion, I'd definitely wait until the optimum time relative to your geography and weather. Is there no need for me to wait for June as you generally indicated? It's not a matter of hard, fast rules re the timing. Instead of "can I" or "should I" repot earlier than June, the question should be what's best for the plant. In our previous discussions I outlined why repotting close to the summer solstice is best. The plant will respond most enthusiastically and recover faster when days are longest/brightest and when the plant's level of reserve energy is at or near peak. Even if the plant is doing poorly now and you feel its level of vitality won't increase between now and mid-June, I'd still wait. I think the only thing that would make me repot now (here in MI) would be if I determined the plant to have a fungal root infection. Can I proceed now even if the plant has some signs of distress as you can see from the bare lower branches (the fourth photo) or should I wait for it to recover in spring? I think I pretty much answered this question in what I wrote above. *********************************************************************************** @kitasei Should I be root pruning my yuzu trees like this?? They are in large pots. When I suggest what you should or shouldn't do, it's always from the perspective of 'what is best for the plant'. Root congestion is a far more insidious robber of growth, vitality, and the plant's ability to defend itself, than 99% of growers realize. Potting up to a larger pot is not an effective strategy for managing roots because there will always be congestion at the center of the root mass. A full repot which includes bare rooting, root pruning, and a change of grow medium completely relieves root congestion and allows the plant to return to its normal rate of growth, level of vitality, and ability to defend itself (against disease pathogens and insect herbivory). A tree that is regularly repotted will normally grow 5-10x faster and exhibit a higher level of vitality, eye appeal, and it will be more productive. If you're objective is to provide your tree with the best opportunity to maximize its genetic potential, repotting (full repots) are essential to that end. Root congestion is limiting and will always hold a plant back. The best time to repot citrus is in the early spring - just before you notice the plant is getting serious about its spring push brought on by warmer temps and brighter/ longer days. Make sure you understand how to go about the repotting process before you dive in head first. Most loss of viability subsequent to repotting is due to overlooking something that seems minor but is important. One important factor is, the roots need to be continually wet during the process. Al

any chance at some pics ... my gut tells me.. you should just get rid of it.. if it is really that close to the house .... otherwise.. i prune things when i walk by with the saw.. IMHO.. just do it ... but you are still going to have a bush.. too close to the house ??? why not just cut it to the ground.. apply stump killer or roundup to the stump.. and plant a new one.. 3 feet further from the house.. at a min??? think outside the box ken

I prune my Japanese Maples all through the year with no problems. A little leaking sap is no reason for concern. Do you have enough room for your maple to grow without limiting the spread by pruning? If not, consider moving it. They move rather easy if not in the ground for over twenty years and in decent soil. When pruning, work from the bottom inside and go up, removing all dead branches and those that are being overlapped. You will end up with a thin umbrella. Do not stub off any branches or tips or expose the trunk to too much sun from the south. Stubs are the first sign of a beginner. Here's one of mine. More can be seen at the address given on my homepage. Hit the search bar after entering Japanese Maples. Here is a link that might be useful: My garden pictures

I've had 100s of plain green palmatums over the years and have to say the vast majority adopt what I'd call a vase shape,very upright growth.I did have a batch 4years ago which had nice horizontal branching and kept a couple back.I'm afraid it's pot luck with seedlings and my guess is that pruning yours back,although it'll get wider,will still produce more of the same upright growth.I don't think being packed together was the main cause of this.The benefit of buying a named cultivar is you can look up and choose the growth habits you desire,otherwise select a tree with the form you desire. I'd say removing the crossing branches is the first step and hopefully someone will be along to advise you the best time to do pruning in your location(I'm UK) whoops just seenGGs comment...good luck :)