Yes, well that is why we are trying to give the front the look of 1 1/2 stories while not putting living space in the attic. There is a full, walkout basement of which 2/3 to 3/4's will have windows due to the slope of the lot. From the rear, it is a 2 story house. This is typical of many homes in the area we are building (Greenville, SC), particularly in the Cliffs. This is a home for our retirement, so we want to have all of the everyday living space on the main floor. I wish we could have kept the footprint smaller by going up for some of the living space, but we're just being realistic about living on one level as we age. And, we don't need 2600 sf on the main level, plus a 2nd story, plus another 2600 sf in the basement. That amount of square footage would not be justified for resale. The basement will have my sewing/crafts room and, eventually, bedrooms & a rec room for when we have grandkids. It had been suggested to us that we leave room for an elevator so we can get down there if we have trouble with the stairs. My contention is that if I have trouble with the stairs, I will have just as much trouble standing at a table to cut out a pattern so I won't be using the sewing room much, anyway. OTOH, if we hit granite when they go to dig the foundation like our next door neighbor did, then we will end up with a two story house to accommodate our future expansion plans. I think this plan will be flexible enough with the gambrel and the Dutch gables for the main roof if we need to go to a backup plan. We know that this will not be an authentic Shingle Style house & we've accepted that. We just didn't want another brick sided traditional or faux French or Craftsmen-esque or "Mountain" style which is so popular Upstate. We decided to take our inspiration from the Shingle Style and be as true as we can to the aesthetic.

BGlad, here is a plan I found online which might be close to your house. You might have it reversed, which many builders and plan books could do. About your woodwork, I don't think it's been refinished...mine looks very similar, and I know it is untouched. And, it was never painted--even kit houses specified either natural finish or paint as options, with stain being the preferred choice whether the wood was douglas fir, southern yellow pine or oak. If anything has been done to your trim, I think at most it was another coat of shellac to even out the 'bumpy' spots which can occur after nearly a century. I'm torn about re-shellacking mine because I love the patina, but it would be nice if it was smooth again. I think that the ceiling molding in your foyer is probably later, done when the tiles were put up. Can't tell from the pics, but is the opening to your dining room just a wide opening, or is there a door of some sort? Here is a link that might be useful: Harris House Plan

I'd go with a true gray either Pewter or the Nickel Gray. We had Weathered wood on our last house and I liked it very much, but not on a gray/blue house. It's more to the brown/tan color. The Georgetown gray looks like it would take a blue tone, and that might compete with the house color. The Colonial might be ok, but why risk it? It's something you will live with for the next 10-15 yrs. You can get creative with door color or shutter colors.

They said the wrap the house and they redo all of the window, door casings. I have replaced alot of individual shingles and painted some but fighting with woodpeckers and I tried it all to stop it its a lose lose. Vinyl is what everyone says to go to and the cedar shake vinyl is more for an enhanced look and resistant to fading.